Hi
i am looking to buy a 2nd hand Golf and i am quite confused with the 118 vs 110 vs 92 vs trendline / comfortline / highline.
the guys at VW only give out info re 2015 / 2016 cars.
can someone please summarise / clarify for me?
many thanks
Volkswagon Golf - Variants
sheya on 15/04/2016 - 10:53
Comments
Latest model / shape MK7 Debut End of 2012 as 2013 models. Lowest Cost to highest Cost: 90TSI, 90TSI Comfortline, 103TSI Highline, GTI, R.
2015 Model Update (New features such as Carplay, Android Auto, More power). 92TSI, 92TSI Trendline, 92TSI Comfortline, 110TSI Highline, GTI, R.
(I have not included diesel just out of sheer principle due to VW Scandal)
ah thank you :)
so 118 means highest.
but the 2015 / 2016 variants don't have 118?Correct. If you want more power, buy a GTI :)
Also, if you click "reply" at the bottom of someone's comment, you can reply directly to them. That way they will get a notification so are more likely to reply.
sorry i realize that now.
The 118 was the top engine (below GTI) for the Mk6 generation. When the Golf was refreshed in 2012, the 118 was replaced by the 110 with slightly lower power output and torque (however with significant fuel efficiency gains).
If you go the DSG option, I'd avoid the Mk6 7sp DSG as that's had catastrophic issues (I used to own one and had 2 gear boxes replaced under warranty - but now that it's out of warranty it'd cost at least $4k). I'd suggest a second hand Mk7 variant, unless you go the Mk6 GTI (6sp DSG with no issues) - that's a fantastic car! (I currently own the Mk7 GTI but have driven the Mk6 GTI and it's also great)
I second the Mk7 suggestion, currently driving a Mk7 MY2014 90kW Comfortline with the 7 Speed DSG.
Honestly unless you really like the feel of a more powerful engine, the standard engine variants are pretty decent for everyday driving. The 90kW still has plenty of get up & go thanks to it's turbo charged engine. To the point where I can still easily overtake most cars from stationary at the lights in merge lanes or lanes ending etc.
Also getting pretty great petrol consumption, especially for highway driving. Regarding trim levels, the Comfortline is good balance between having some more high end features & not spending a fortune.
get a R :P
I am torn between GOLF (unsure which variant - but like the highline) and the Lexus CT-200 H
The different variants of Golf - Recalled, On a Flatbed, Burnt Out, At The Mechanics
I think I covered them all :)
thats my concern
GOLF are not known for reliability :(whereas lexus is.
whereas lexus is.
Because they're a glorified Toyota ;)
How much are you looking to spend on these cars? What model year are you hoping to buy?
With the Lexus CT 200h - i want the LUXURY model with EP3 pack metallic Black or white in colour + Beige (i forgot the exact name they use) leather interior - cost would be $43,400 (but my company pays for servicing for 3 years) so if i factor that in the cost - it would be 41,300 ($700 * 3 = $2100 servicing over 3 years)
plus tinting included - i want as dark as possible but not sure how dark i am allowed to go and what lexus parra was offering.I would buy brand new because I cant seem to find this in the 2nd hand market for an older year with the above.
if i go for the golf - i wont buy brand new because its not something i love - i.e. my brother suggested it and its OK to buy just as something to get from A to B. My current lancer is getting old.
Looking at $20k.
I'd go the Golf brand new or not at all, but that's just me. Resale and reliability issues go hand-in-hand as they get older, less reliable the car is the worse the hit on the resale. Plus buying a Golf around $20k means expensive maintenance and servicing.
As to the Lexus… I dunno, there's a lot of nice cars around $40k.
@shirazs: Can you buy a near new gti for that $$? http://www.carsales.com.au/dealer/details/Volkswagen-Golf-20…
I've only had a few experiences driving VWs, and they're all bad ones. I wouldn't buy one.
Which golfs have you had Spackbace? I have been driving golfs for 3 years or so now.
First was a mk5 GTI Pirelli and now I have a mk7 gti, between the two I have had 2 x faulty batteries and 1 x faulty thermostat. I don't think these faults are overly concerning.. maybe I have been lucky so I would be interested to hear what your experience has been.
Just from a dealership (trade-in) POV, they're not well liked after the warranty period has expired!
You work at (non-VW?) a dealership? What state are you in? Can you sell us some of these not well liked golfs at a discounted rate?
You work at (non-VW?) a dealership?
Yep
What state are you in
WA
Can you sell us some of these not well liked golfs at a discounted rate?
Nope :P Customers don't normally like being told the trade-in value of their VW/Renault/Saab/any other Euro brand ;)
@Spackbace: Ouch your really must hate your VW's if they get thrown into the same category as Renault!! lol.. The French car industry must be so happy right now.
It's all dependent. Is the car under NCW, is it desirable, has the new car price gone down due to a sale. All has a part to play. If you paid full RRP for a new car, then come in 12 months later when the new car price has dropped $4k (for example), don't be surprised because your value has dropped accordingly ;)
@Spackbace: just pointing out it's not only Euro cars which depreciate… with a few exceptions, all new car values go off the cliff pretty quick.
@Spackbace: is that actual fact or just perception? People always claim that but I've never seen anyone support it. Not that I buy new cars anyway, I prefer to get the benefit of depreciation instead of the cost.
It's fact, and there's varying things that don't help the situation either. Like rental cars destroy resale - if you buy a car new, that's the same as rental cars, expect your resale to take a dive (Commodores, for example, as well as a few Hyundai models). And trouble outside warranty comes into play, so your Euro and Yank cars after warranty runs out take a dive.
The problem is that it's a difficult thing to prove. I can show you Carsales results, but that doesn't reflect what the dealer actually paid for the car. Redbook is not a true decider either.
@daveaus: Golf is crap but it sells because people want (1) Prestige and for the price you get a good shape.
If Honda upped their game and dumped the Jazz shape I bet they would be more popular.
@GameChanger: What is crap about golf? I didn't consider them to have any Prestige so I hope there is more to my car than a good shape !
@daveaus: They're unreliable after warranty and pretty much depreciated to a level that it makes no sense to sell.
Its a cheap car that sells because of the brand, not because of its performance imo.
@GameChanger: Which golf did you have? As I mentioned before I have had 2 in a row and don't have any complaints. The two other golfs in the work car park have happy owners.
@daveaus: I don't own one personally but a relative of mine keeps buying them even though had 2/3 lemons.
Under warranty I think they're great cars, but for the price of the high end I just don't feel they're worth it.
What ones do you have?
@GameChanger: Last one was a gti Pirelli mk5, current one is a gti mk7. The Pirelli had a faulty battery but apart from that I only had to do maintenance type stuff (break pads which I will admit was kinda costly). The mk7 has had a battery and the thermostat replaced under warranty.
@GameChanger: Donno the figures exactly, both where second hand. Performance, interior and they seem nice to drive. Before the golf I had a WRX which was obviously faster but was a bit ordinary inside.
sounds more like alfa romeo to me ;)
avoid 118tsi twin charger
a lot of problems!
Forget about VW,get a Mazda 3,nice looking,cheap maintenance and reliability:)
Of course, and don't forget to buy earplugs using your savings from the 1st maintenance of Mazda 3!
Just joking, nothing personal;)
I think Mazda 2,3 are quite boring to drive, but that's just me…
Get a 86 or WRX then :)
whereas a 90kW Golf is a total hoot!
@Cheap Charlie: The new WRX's are quite fun to drive. Great stiff suspension, boost kicks in a lower torque (pulls you back in your seat) and its quite sophisticated in terms of technology. It's obviously not the most powerful machine but it's still great fun.
I would buy brand new because I cant seem to find this in the 2nd hand market for an older year with the above.
Because it's a left-field choice, there's fewer available second-hand as they're not a volume selling Lexus.
The Aussie car market is mostly pretty conservative, to some degree mirroring UK new car sales trends. Many people are (to a degree) making buying decisions based on what the next owner will find desirable or acceptable.
Which isn't to say the Lexus CT is a bad car by any means. But it's hampered by cheaper alternatives below and Euro ones above that aren't much dearer.
IMO few buyers are prepared to pay to stand out from the crowd, unless it's something exotic or high performance.
If i did find a Lexus CT-200h in the 2nd hand market, i would do a complete NRMA inspection, that costs roughly $350.
I am wondering, how can i stop the seller from doing a sale with another party during the timeframe that NRMA comes over.Even if i gave him a deposit of some money to hold the car, there is nothing stopping him from selling it to someone else if he got a better price.
And then returning my deposit to me.Is there anyway i can eliminate this risk?
It's been 25 years since I bought a car that way. In 1991, I drove the car to NRMA Eastwood where they conducted the inspection. So I had possession of it but IIRC we had a verbal/handshake agreement.
Much depends on how keen (and accommodating) the seller is.
So if you inspect and test drive the car yourself and are happy with it, declare your interest and make an offer. If they agree, whip out a pre-written agreement that you both sign. Be sure to include something like "finalisation of purchase subject to NRMA pre-purchase inspection". Exchange IDs for mutual confirmation of names and signatures.
Whether you specifically choose an "out" clause or further discount based on problems found is up to you, but include something to cover yourself.
At that point you'd have their name, contact number, an address and their signature covering the deposit and inspection interval. Which is better than nothing, but note I'm not a legal practitioner so check if NRMA and your State consumer body have tips for this situation.
And in the event he does sell the car off to another party who offers more.
whom can i approach for recovering my deposit? (i.e. if the seller refuses to return the deposit)@sheya: The purpose of a receipt is to have a document that covers you in that situation. You'd first approach the seller for the deposit.
Realistically, it's not likely to happen — it's a Lexus hybrid hatchback which is not a traditionally strong Lexus market. I doubt buyers will be beating his door down…unless it's really cheap :)
that's the risk of private sales hardly anyway to eliminate. Make sure to write down a notice of deposit regarding the sale, two party's driver licence number and all. But most of all, feel if you're comfortable with whom you dealing with. I shelled out the same for inspection of my last purchase, made sure the seller's happy with an independent third party involved. Make sure your intention of purchasing the car is clear, not here to kick tyre, be transparent when you can pay the whole amount as well. My last purchase the car after inspection turned out to be needing some extra replacement which ended up about $500. My seller did tell me someone was keen to pay $6200 and I only wanted to do $6000 after the inspection. I told her look she can sell to the other person if she wants and none's the wiser but I have the money right here so she knows that I'm fair dinkum and I got the car.
TL; DR: largely depends on integrity of the seller, also building rapport with the seller and make sure that they're someone you can trust to a certain degree. You can't eliminate the risk of they selling out but at least have some written thing to prove that they have your deposit, in case they sell out. Having the dosh with you straight away is a big factor as always.
"Make sure to write down a notice of deposit regarding the sale, two party's driver licence number and all."
"whip out a pre-written agreement"
is there a template or something i can follow- or is it just a piece of paper in plain english ?
Thanks
Well, I'd just write my own. Leave relevant bits for name, rego number, VIN number, Engine number and personal details as underscores. Then print them as necessary.
OR
Dealer cars might be less hassle. Under $40K but not tan leather:
35000km Black at Waterloo
26000km Black at WaitaraThis one is under $26k
whats the cheapest transporter from Melbourne to Sydney?
Car is in VICI'd personally get a discount flight (30-80 bucks) and drive it home. As it's a hybrid it will be much cheaper than transporting it.
The only question is one of time needed to do it.I can't recommend any reputable car transporters. Others here will have experience of good ones.
@mcmonte: I had my car transported from Brisbane to Melbourne with Prix Car Transport in an enclosed rail box (it's cheaper on a truck but takes longer/isn't as secure), it was $770 & took about a week all up from dropping it to them to collection from their depot. I would highly recommend them.
@salbee28: I got several quotes for Brisbane-Adelaide which were around $300-$400. Some will even drive the car to you (if you want that).
@magicmoose: Oh that's way cheaper, was that just on a truck though or enclosed rail box?
I personally wouldn't have wanted them to drive it to me, but that would be handy if you weren't as concerned with adding the additional KM's (mine was only dealer used with 900KM's, didn't want to add another 1700KM to that to get it to me).
@salbee28: just on a truck, it was only an i30 haha
EDIT: I should clarify that by "drive it to you" I meant drive it from the depot to you, not drive the whole distance.
@magicmoose: Ah yes, I opted for the enclosed rail box after reading horror stories about people's cars having fluids leaked on from cars on the rails above & the cars being left unlocked on the trucks overnight etc.
Having it driven to me from the depot would have been great though since I had to leave early & get dropped there by my boss to collect it.
sorry read above
The number indicates the power in kW.
The Trendline, Comfortline and Highline are equipment levels. The Comfortline models have more equipment than the Trendline. The Highline is the top.