Car Oil Filter Recommendation

• 

  nocure on 29/03/2016 - 19:54

  +4

  Z411 …stick with ryco and make sure you remove the old seal as they usually stick to the housing when you unscrew the old filter.

  • 

    Mstenchavez on 29/03/2016 - 20:08

    +1

    Thank you sir for the recommendation and Ill keep in mind that old seal thing.

  • 

    Mstenchavez on 29/03/2016 - 23:03

    Hi Sir, would you recommend also an engine oil flush before changing oil? is it required or optional?

    • 

      oscargamer on 30/03/2016 - 08:21

      +1

      very option

      i have never flushed before (unless it was a number 2)

      • 

        Mstenchavez on 30/03/2016 - 08:24

        what do you mean by number 2 sir? sorry sir not familiar with car parts terms

      • 

        oscargamer on 30/03/2016 - 08:59

        @Mstenchavez:

        oh….come on…..seriously ?

      • 

        alexkaratedo on 30/03/2016 - 19:11

        @Mstenchavez: He was probably referring to this, although not being a native speaker, I had to look it up as well :).
        http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=Number+two

• 

  oscargamer on 29/03/2016 - 21:27

  +2

  ryco are good

  rub a little clean oil on the new seal before fitting and DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN

  run for a few mins, then stop for 10 mins and check for drips and oil level

  • 

    Mstenchavez on 29/03/2016 - 22:05

    Noted. Thank you sir for the tips.

• 

  oscargamer on 29/03/2016 - 21:28

  duplicate

• 

  cvas on 29/03/2016 - 22:27

  +1

  As above Ryco are half decent filters. However if you have some spare time and aren't too far away, give the Kia parts department a call and see how much it is for a genuine filter. Speaking from experience with Subaru & Toyota (not sure about Kia) but genuine filters are worlds ahead of Ryco IMO and might be a good idea to buy a new crush washer (assuming your car has one) which the dealer will have for a couple of bux.

  • 

    Mstenchavez on 29/03/2016 - 22:47

    Thank you sir for the advice. But i think i might stick with Ryco though (as suggested on the above posts). Also, I just checked while ago that my current oil filter is in fact a Ryco. It's the first time of the car to get an oil and filter change since it was bought (second hand) last year (Jan 2015). I'll stick to whats tried and tested already. I'll take note on the crush washer though. i'll check if the car has one.

• 

  shaybisc on 30/03/2016 - 09:40

  Be prepared for a struggle. I have found that everything a mechanic gets his hands on comes back screwed on super tight- tighter than necessary, like wheel nuts, oil plugs etc. Don't use an adjustable spanner or socket. Use the right sized box end spanner.

  "Don’t skimp on a filter
  In the old days, oil filters were all pretty much the same inside. But not anymore. If your owner’s manual recommends extended oil change intervals (every 6,000 miles instead of 3,000 miles), you must buy a filter that’s rated to go the distance. In other words, don’t fill your engine with expensive synthetic oil and then spin on an economy filter—it won’t last. Check the filter box, ask the store clerk, or check the filter manufacturer’s Web site to make sure the filter you buy is rated for extended oil change intervals.

  There’s a huge difference between an economy filter and a top-of-the-line version. But there’s only a small difference in price. If you use conventional oil and diligently change it every 3,000 miles, you can get by with the economy filter. But if you regularly “forget” and go beyond that mileage or use long-mileage synthetic blends or full synthetic, spend the extra bucks on a better filter. Look at these cutaway filters and you can see why the premium filter is a better choice."

  http://www.familyhandyman.com/automotive/diy-oil-change/diy-…

  I don't use synthetic oil so that doesn't apply to me or maybe you either. Just thought I'd throw it in here.

• 

  kmwa on 30/03/2016 - 13:10

  They have flipcharts in Supercheap that tell you the right filter for your car. Ask one of the staff to show you how to use it, they will find the right one for your make/model/year of car.
  You will also need:
  * a socket wrench of the right size for getting the drain plug off. Best not to use an adjustable as they are sometimes very tight.
  * a drain pan to catch the draining oil (buy at Supercheap)
  * a strap wrench or chain wrench to get the oil filter off, they are sometimes crazy tight, ask in Supercheap for the right size when you buy the filter
  * another container (5 litre oil bottle) to pour the drained oil into, for disposal
  * some newspaper and plastic bags to wrap the old oil filter and put it in the bin
  I would also recommend some leather gloves (Supercheap $3) because it's easy to skin your knuckles doing this.
  You will also need to get under the vehicle to do the work. Do not jack the car up and crawl under, jacks sometimes fail.
  You can buy axle stands or wheel stands but these can be expensive.
  To do it on the cheap, run one side of the car up onto a kerb, which will give you enough room to crawl underneath. Pull the handbrake on as hard as you can, and be aware of other traffic if you're doing this out on the street.
  I normally run the car for a couple of minutes to get the oil warm and runny. You can do the change after you've been driving if you let the car cool down for about an hour. Don't do it when the engine and the oil is hot, you will burn yourself on the oil when it comes out of the drain plug and the filter.
  In my opinion and experience of doing home filter changes, the Supercheap filters are fine, and totally interchangeable with Ryco or OEM filters.
  And the cheapest oil is fine, too.
  Even if you buy all this stuff to do the oil change, it will still be cheaper than getting a garage to do it. And you will feel awesome.