ORIGINALE27
LIFX Original e27 in Gunmetal Grey (No white model or Bayonet)
USD $29.99 + $7.95 or free shipping for orders over US$300
Use the coupon 'ORIGINALE27' at checkout to redeem.
LIFX Original E27 Gunmetal Grey Only - USD $29.99 (~AU $42) + $7.95 Shipping
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well it's not like you should be updating the firmware often.
these are the original lifx bulbs - all of them will want to do an update on unboxing.
So these are compatible with Australia's 240 volt?
They have a Universal power supply AC 100-240V • 50/60Hz so no problems with Au power. I have been happy with mine to date, used a bayonet to e27 adaptor ($1.95 at ikea). I went with them over the Phillips Hue for the increased brightness.
Will re-wiring the house to 110volts be a deal breaker?
Never heard of that being done in Australia… wouldn't recommend.
So these are compatible with Australia's 240 volt?
Australia is 230V 50Hz.
In most states although not Queensland, W.A and the ACT which still have the 240v standard. There is however a -6% to +10% allowance on the standard which allows all state standards to accept 225v - 253v.
In most states although not Queensland, W.A and the ACT which still have the 240v standard. There is however a -6% to +10% allowance on the standard which allows all state standards to accept 225v - 253v.
The Australian Standard is 230V and has been since the year 2000. Your claim that most states have their own 240V standard is utter rubbish.
"The nominal voltage in most areas of Australia was set at 240 V in the 1920s. However, a change began in 1980 with the International Electrotechnical Commission (IEC) deciding to rationalise the 220 V, 230 V and 240 V nominal voltage levels around the world to a consistent 230 V.
This rationalisation was ostensibly made to improve the economics of making appliances by allowing manufacturers to produce a range of items with a rated voltage of 230 V. In 2000, Standards Australia issued a system Standard, AS60038, with 230V as the nominal voltage with a +10% to –6% variation at the point of supply. (253 V to 216.2 V)
A new power quality standard, AS61000.3.100, was released in 2011[19] that details requirements additional to the existing systems Standard. The new Standard stipulates a nominal 230 V, and the allowable voltage to the customer’s point of supply is, as mentioned, +10% to –6%. However, the preferred operating range is +6% to –2%. (243.8 V to 225.4 V)"
Your reply is utter rubbish. (See how easy it is to be rude - even I can do it!)
Let me quote for you from the Queensland government Department of Energy and Water Supply website (updated January 2016):
"When electricity travels from the transmission network to the distribution networks its voltage is reduced until it reaches final voltage of 240 volts (V) for supply to homes and businesses."
and from Ergon:
"Queensland is one of the last areas where low voltage (LV) supply is still supplied at 240V1. Most of the world and other Australian states (except Western Australia) use the international standard2 of 230V (+10/-6%) introduced in 2000."
Ergon is conducting a trial of 230v for 8,000 Queensland premises later in 2016.
Westernpower supplies W.A with, "240V single phase with a range of plus or minus 6%, averaged over five minutes.".
So, your reply is simply wrong.
Your reply is utter rubbish. (See how easy it is to be rude - even I can do it!)
How is that? The Australian Standard is 230V, this is an irrefutable fact. You are wrong and have no idea what you are talking about.
So, your reply is simply wrong.
I have linked to the Australian Standard which clearly states 230V is the standard for Australia. The fact that some distributors may or may not exceed the standard is irrelevant.
I have already given you the link to the Queensland GOVERNMENT website. It says that Queensland is yet to adopt the standard you are referring to. The same is true for Western Australia no matter how much you may deny. Can you not read?
Electricity standards in Australia are mandated by the state, not federally. That is the law. "In Australia, technical and safety electrical regulatory functions are largely the responsibility of state and territory governments." (Electrical Regulatory Authorities Council).
The standard you refer to has no compulsory or enforceable power. It is not the law. State governments set the individual laws for their constituencies and in the areas I have mentioned they still have a 240v standard.
I have every idea what I am talking about. Please show your references proving that Queensland and W.A have 230v supplies. Not a non-binding standard but something from those state governments please. Show me something refuting what those governments have actually said explicitly about their state's supply.
It is clear that you do not understand the difference between a standard and what is actually practiced, nor do you understand who sets the rules on electricity supply for the various states.
How do these compare to the Philips Hue?
Brighter (1000 Lumen), Better chipset (hue uses zigbee and requires a hub to communicate with them, lifx connects to your wifi)
Hotter. Pollutes your WiFi network. No HomeKit support.
;)
Does anyone know if the Edison screw E26 or E27 will suit most lamps? Or does that depend on the type of socket I have?
Does anyone know if the Edison screw E26 or E27 will suit most lamps?
This deal is E27 and that will suit ALL lamps…
… that have E27 lampholders.
Or does that depend on the type of socket I have?
Think about it.
No need to be a smart-ass, it was a genuine valid question - I have a screw-type lamp but I'm not sure whether it's an E26 or E27.
If it was a genuine question about something specific, then you would have been better if you asked it that way.
For example: "Does anyone know WHICH Edison screw E26 or E27 will BE THE MOST LIKE TO BE SUITABLE FOR AN AUSTRALIAN (insert kind of) LAMP?
In which case, the answer is that E26 is American standard (110 Volt) and extremely unlikely to be used in a (say a table) lamp in Australia. Here we we use the European standard E27 as that has the correct voltage range (220-240V).
However the wording of your first post asks if E26 and E27 will suit most lamps, which is what I answered.
Fair enough, I'm glad you understood what I was asking but still decided to be difficult about it.
Like a midget at a urinal, you have to be on your toes around here!
I'm glad you understood what I was asking but still decided to be difficult about it.
You cannot seem to grasp that I DIDN'T originally understand what you were asking. So I answered what you wrote (which was a silly question), rather than using my ESP powers to try and work out what you were thinking.
I have worked in the lighting industry for over 35 years, but honestly, I didn't know what you wanted to know until you came back and clarified.
I understand that you may work in the industry and may have to deal with silly questions regarding different globes/lamps/lights etc on a daily basis, but not everyone is an expert in that area.
Your question was perfectly reasonable, and it is fair enough that most people might not know the difference between E26 and E27.
It was simply the wording of your initial post that was not clear, so I misunderstood and took it the wrong way.
Your wording was: Does anyone know if the Edison screw E26 or E27 will suit most lamps?
What you meant: Does anyone know WHICH ONE OF Edison screw E26 or E27 will suit most lamps?
Perhaps you read these as asking the same thing, but unfortunately I didn't. It's a language thing, similar to this meme: http://usercontent1.hubimg.com/8257586_f520.jpg
For the record, Maverick-au (see post below) read your question the same way as I did.
Apologies if I come across as petty or argumentative, I am just trying to explain my response. Cheers!
All good mate, believe it or not that was the second revision of my question, it did sound somewhat right in my head at the time of posting it.
Bayonet to Edison screw adapters were about $1 shipped, on Aliexpress last time I looked.
Does anyone know if the Edison screw E26 or E27 will suit most lamps? Or does that depend on the type of socket I have?
Australia used E27 not E26 so I don't know why you're asking about E26? If your fitting takes E27 of course it will fit, if it's bayonet you need a bayonet fitting or an adapter.
Comparison to newer color 1000 version? apart from 17W vs 11?
http://www.techhive.com/article/2996116/lighting/lifx-launch…
The new bulb’s technical specs remain largely unchanged. Just like the original, the Color 1000 allows you to cycle through 16 million colors including 1000 shades of warm to cool white. It can put out up to 1055 lumens, which is only a nominal improvement over its predecessor’s 1017 lumens. It is considerably more energy efficient, on the other hand, consuming just 11 watts at peak brightness versus the previous model’s 17 watts.
LIFX says its Color 1000 is the world’s first color-tunable bulb to ship with “Designed for AllSeen” certification. This means it’s compatible with the AllJoyn networking standard developed by the AllSeen Alliance, a nonprofit consortium dedicated to enabling interoperability among devices and services that make up the Internet of Things. The cross-industry group has more than 150 members, including ADT, Cisco, Microsoft, and Qualcomm.
Seemed to work when i put through the grey with bayonet cap. And the white.
Yeah I was able to put through an order of three white bayonets.
Did you end up getting them?
Yup, using one now.
Was very quick too, ordered Sunday night and delivered Wed lunch, they may have a distributor in Sydney.
Got 1. Thanks OP.
Would consider trying a couple if $46USD shipped, only a bit outside of the budget.
I have wall switches. They're great.
Code still appears to work, and now there is free shipping to Australia
Still works - just bought one for 29.95 with free shipping. Only decided I wanted one about 6 minutes ago.. ran a search on OZB.. bam! Thanks guys/gals :-)
I just bought a few bulbs using the above code - it's still working! Great deal to get into the world of smart bulbs.
Thanks OP - I just ordered 3 bulbs for US$90 with free delivery.
Approx AU$120 ($40 a bulb - cheap for smart colour - these sell at Harvey Norman for $86 each on special!)I bought 2 Belkin WeMo white (not colour) lights for $150 at Officeworks - and today they are not found or respond to the app on my or wifes phone - so they going back.
These codes appear to work too:
RMN50 - 50% off original bulbs (white and grey)
RMN10 - 10% off entire siteBesides colour, is there any difference between white and grey coloured casing?
You would think white would reflect light down/out better.I'm guessing it's purely aesthetic. I ended up buying three as well. So with the codes:
Color 1000 x3 = 134.98 (180)
The Original x3 = 89.99 (120)The main differences are:
Color 1000 is smaller since it comes in the more standard A19 form factor, whereas the Original is an A21-sized.
20-percent lighter at around 8.5 ounces.Wouldnt it have been better value to buy the 4-pack of Colour1000 (which is discounted in a 4-pack) and then apply the 10% code on top?
Mind you, if you only needed 3, its only a few $ more per bulb for 3 instead of the 4 pack.
Check the size comparison, it might be worth spending an extra $20 on each bulb just for the size difference alone http://i.imgur.com/QCPBLJY.jpg
Hah wow. Ive got huge downlights at my place (can almost fit those outdoor spotlight bulbs in there) so I dont mind the larger bulbs for now.
But later if we move, might need to use them in lamps etc.
Today I received my 3 original grey bulbs ordered 4th May. They are not as big as I expected (after reading they are huge) but they are a lot heavier.
The first bulb upgraded its firmware reasonably quickly. I then put 2 more in the lounge, and had heaps of trouble updating their firmware (it kept getting stuck).
Rebooted phone and lights several times. Then tried the Windows app and it gives a lot more info about the status, but still got stuck around 12% trying to update the pair.Finally took 1 bulb out, so I could just update one at a time. Worked a treat… much faster and got to 100%.
So - lesson learnt - when you buy new LIFX lights - install them ONE AT A TIME (OK to have existing LIFX lights that are already up to date) and perform the firmware update on a single new light at a time.
Do you remember if when you updated the firmware, it went straight from 1.1 to 2.0? Or did it go from 1.1 to 1.2 etc
I've heard 2.0 removed a few useful features. I have one of these bulbs, but I've been hesitant to update because of that.
For some reason the original bulbs show up twice in the firmware app - each bulb shows as firmware 1.1 and 2.0. No matter how many times you run the firmware app.
The new white 800 bulbs only show as 2.0
Thanks for replying so quickly. Its probably something better discussed over private message, but you seem to have it disabled.
bought four, fast in deliver but one does not display wifi SSID at all even flip the reset button procedures a few times. Submitted RMA details, has been waiting for 4 days reply for 'preparing' my RMA. Still no response. I guess a lot of users screaming for help of bulbs being a brick.
As much as I like these bulbs, they are…. hard to recommend to people who want to set and forget.
The firmware update process is extremely brittle - to the point where if your network or phone app dies during the update, the lightbulb is bricked.
In terms of software and the like though, it's hard to fault.