Fixing front suspension on EL Falcon Wagon

Hi all. I have recently bought an EL Falcon wagon for $800. Needless to say it needs a bit of work done.

I took it into Pedders Suspension because the inside of the front right hand tyre is wearing and I figured it needed a wheel alignment.

After checking the vehicle they told me I need the following things done to the front suspension . Prices include parts and labor:

Lower ball joints (both split) $256.93
Upper control arm and inner bushes (bushes soft, recommend replacement) $219.32
Radius rod and bushes (front and rear bushes worn) $106.47+$170.80
Rotars and pads (rotors badly grooved) $235.44
Wheel bearings or hub assemblies (Excessive movement, requires replacement) $100.72

Total price
Parts $596.00
Labour $493.68
Total $1089.68

I declined having the work done. I want to source quality parts as cheap as possible and have it done by a person recommended by a friend who charges $30 an hour.

Where is the best place to order the parts? Is ebay OK? I figure I could wait until they have another 20% off sale. Or how about Supercheap if they are having a sale?

How much should I be able to source the parts for approximately? I am happy to keep driving the vehicle very carefully on flat, isolated country roads for a few more months until a good deal on parts can be found. I actually drove all the way from Vic to Qld with the vehicle in the current condition. I wont be driving much in the next few months. Is it dangerous to drive the vehicle in this condition? I thought I heard that wheel bearings are important for safety.

Cheers for any advice.

Comments

  • repco with racv discount if you have it 20% off for feb

    • Don't have membership. Buy I have a repco vip club card. Not sure if they still work.

  • +1

    Just get a couple of other opinions. I've found small owner/operator garages are good for older cars where you simply want to keep them safe and running.

    • Sounds like a good idea.

  • Did you get the wheel balanced, or the front alignment done?
    Can you feel the brakes pulsing or squealing?
    Can you hear the bearings?
    I'm surprised the shockers are OK.
    Your car is 20 years old. Any car this old is eligible for all these things and may be necessary, if your driving requirements demand it.

    • They didn't want to do a wheel alignment or balance unless the other issues were fixed. Brakes squeak a little. Can hear squeak occasionally, maybe wheel bearing. Ive taken it all the way from Tasmania up to Qld. Seemed to shake a bit coming down the big hill from the Southern approach to Hobart. Ive done about 5000km so far. I drive very carefully. Minimal braking. Always sit on 80-90km/hr on long trip and 60-70km/hr on short local trips on quiet roads.

  • Probably cheaper to buy a more modern car for about 1500 than spend a grand on an EL ford , you may have just driving long distance without serious damage however, that long trip may have sealed the fate of all the listed components, 10 more k's and she may be badly shaking and crashing into trees or worse other cars after component failure. Hope you're insured

  • Not an EL but still an E-Series:
    http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-3393084/A-53-year-ol…


    I say get rid of it, and get an AU2/3 at a minimum instead.

    It would be interesting to see what it would need for rego to be transferred interstate.

    • Errr, not worth it. We use super strict RWC rules on Vic cars to keep you southerners at bay.

      Mwahhahahaha.

  • +2

    Definitely get a second opinion from an independent shop. Pedders is anecdotally known to quote work that isn't required and charges out the arse for it.

    • This. Pedders have given you a quote to get everything back to 100%. What you want is a price to keep it in a serviceable condition. I had Pedders quote me about $1200 to fix up the suspension on an old Corolla I bought for $1800, needless to say I didn't go ahead with it, but did find out that there was nothing broken, just worn out but still serviceable.

  • +1

    Suspension shops are NOTORIOUS for trying to gouge customers buy replacing components unnecessarily.

    "No bull."

    Try Kmart auto for a second opinion.

    • KMart Tyre andAuto are hopeless.
      Incompetent mechanics and careless managers.
      Never again!

  • if you drive and crash and hurt someone, would it be worth fixing it then?

    • I plan to ride my push bike as much as possible in the meantime and if I do drive it will be on a very quiet country road. No more than 60km/hr.

      • great - as per herp and batfastard, get a second quote from a 'normal' mechanic, not a suspension shop

  • every el falcon thats still on the road would have the same list of repairs from pedders,

    it would be far cheaper to accept the cost of the front right tyre being replaced on a more regular basis than normal than to pay for repairs to an $800 falcon.

    get a second opinion for safety and then look at the cost of chewing a tyre out early, probably not going to be that bigger issue if you rotate your tyres to share the uneven wear.

    • Until a ball joint fails.

      • To be honest it drove quite OK since Ive had it apart from the shuddering when breaking down the steep hills at Hobart. There has been a few times its squeaked but not consistently so. Im actually getting good fuel economy. Its a manual and I sat on 90km/hr going from Melbourne up to Qld. About 2000km of driving cost less than $200. Not bad for an old bomb.

        • Shuddering is due to warped brake rotors. Common in falcons.
          Rotors can be machined or replace rotor and pads. About $150 each for a front set or a rear set if you can diy. Another $100 each end to get it done. You may only need front or rear.
          Joints, bushes check them by lifting one wheel at a time and check it for play. Wheel bearings play is easy to feel grabbing the wheel and moving it listening/feeling it. You can repak wheel bearings with grease and retighten them.
          Shocks just bounce one corner at a time and if it comes back up and stops it is good. If it bounces a couple of times it is gone.
          No point fixing it all to as new condition as Peddlers probably quoted for.
          Just make it safe.
          How many ks on the clock?

        • 232,000km

  • +2

    If it is in good condition overall and if you plan to keep it for a few years it is worth fixing it but not to pedders standards.
    If you cannot diy find a cheaper mechanic.
    You can get another 200,000k from that car.
    But it may cost you a bit in repairs. Good cars for mechanicaly minded people.

    • Thats the plan. Even if I end up spending $1000 a year fixing it up it still costs less than owning a new car. It is also very practical because of its large boot space.

  • +1

    Dave, go get a 'real' vehicle inspection, try a 'Pre-purchase' and again you will get as much as you pay for, info or details that is. There is only so much you can learn to test on your own in a simple reading here, so unless you really are sure, have a mech' minded mate help you out.

    Note, what is buggered in a 2014 model, maybe perfectly ok in a 1995 model, and the ball joint free play in a Ford EL is different to a Holden VL or a anything else and even how to test as there are 4 different front end designs that mean 4 different testing methods. Confused yet?

    Specialist workshops offer premium parts and service, so you will pay more. Many steering and suspension items are only sold in pairs so these shop repairs are bound to be quite expensive. Fantastic quality gear, but you need to pay.

    List by firstly, safety items must repair now, and then, list of need to do soon, next service or before a trip. Get quotes on specific jobs, and a combination of jobs as that are frequently more economical when performed together.

    Ask questions, as sometimes there are reasons an item is failed for Road-worthiness, but not actually worn out or broken. EG, ball joints are a fail if the rubber boot is split, but physically the ball and cup are good. This goes for CV's, tie rod ends and such.

    Shuddering can be a few things, and could be the brakes. Brake rotors are getting thinner and lighter, (unsprung weight issues in design), and EVERY manufacturer has the same issue. It is also a driver fault more than material fault, but some times they can be machined, and sometimes not. Wrecking yards may help with many parts, and also the repairs too.

    Workshops are limited by legal liabilities of what they can and can't do with repairs and when a repair can even be half or done at all. EG a wheel balance is performed and charged for on a bald tyre, you could clean them out in court as an unsafe unwarranted repair, especially if an accident occurs as a result. They are experts so should know better.

    So, many questions you need to find answers for, get the quotes, get the options and do some listings. Rebuilding a car you really love will always be cheaper if you can do much of the labour, and just think, what will these lists have new on them in 6 months, etc. It is on going.

    If using a workshop/s, or even a home mechanic, 90% of the time everyone will be happy. Not all mechanics are perfectly right 100% of the time, nor do all drivers tell the truth re 'what really happened'. It all balances out, and the old EL is a strong beast to start with. It can't hurt to keep an eye out for a better vehicle, before you drop your dosh as bargains do come up, but that all depends on your and your money and time budgeting. Good luck.

  • Get a front end wheel alignment and balance. Visible wear in 5000k deserves a look. Rear wheel alignment is a waste of money. That will cost less than $100. Give it another 5000K, and see how it shapes up. Shuddering brakes down steep hills is discomforting, but hasn't really been a problem since drum brakes. At 90 KPH, you will not die from anything much except another driver.
    The EF's and EL's were great cars. Enjoy yours, drive it till it dies, and never, never again go near a franchise mechanic of any knd.

  • The old falcadore is really giving it to you, isn't it mate? Maybe it's time to let her go?

    • The Honda bike was a bit more reliable.

  • Repco has the special on set of 2 rotors, pads and brakes fluid for $99 if you need to replace them. Rear ones are very easy to do. Front ones a little bit more involved but not difficult at all. $200 and you get front, rear rotors and pads new. And flush the fluid.

    • Thanks for letting me know. What will be the outcome if I continue to make one 56km return trip to town per fortnight with minimal braking? The only time Ive noticed a problem is on really steep hills and there are non on my route. I definitely plan to have it done before I head south again in October or November. Repco is a long way from where I am. What is the usual price? All the stuff pedders mentioned was on the front. Will need to do an inspection. Have to wait till it rains and get time off work.

    • Could order some front ones if its a super special and return later if it ends up cheaper to machine. How much for postage I wonder? Repco is a long way.

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