Diagnose PC issue

CI on 28/01/2016 - 19:23

Hi guys
Could you please help me diagnose the issue with my PC.
It was working fine and now it won't turn on.
Once I plus the power in and hit the on button, it just goes into this cycle of turning on for less than a second and off again and starts this again.
I have attached a video to explain my situation:
http://youtu.be/MnPD_esAtjk

The PSU is working fine as i checked with the voltmeter, all the voltages on the outlets pins are as expected.

Could it be the motherboard has died ?
I have run isolation tests already to no avail so far

Computing

closed Comments

  • supnigs super skids on 28/01/2016 - 19:33
    +4

    try another power supply. If it isn't that it would be the mainboard. If you really wanna try your luck and have time, unplug each component, one at a time and see if it turns on.

    • CI on 28/01/2016 - 19:37
      -7

      Like I said in my op, I already ran the isolation test.

      • supnigs super skids on 28/01/2016 - 19:40
        +14

        No worries. I'm out of here lol. Power supplies can't be test with just a voltmeter.

      • airzone on 28/01/2016 - 21:30
        +11

        You may find that one of the rails can no longer supply the current required. PSU is never ruled out until you have tried a different one.

    • CI on 28/01/2016 - 19:39
      -3

      It does the same thing with these parts plugged in or not. In the video only ram is plugged in.

  • GoldPhoenix0 on 28/01/2016 - 19:40

    I know I had a similar issue, thought I had tried all different solutions and it ended up being the GPU which had died, causing a similar issue than above. HDD would fail further in the process, RAM could be an issue, but generally still get to the boot screen.

    But my general test of things would be a process of elimination by removing the parts until it does something different (and recommended to replace it with the same part to make sure it isn't faulty)
    1. Check PSU
    2. Check GPU
    3. Check RAM
    4. Check MOBO
    5. ???

    • CI on 28/01/2016 - 19:45

      Yes all these parts are removed
      Right now it's just PSU feeding the motherboard and it is still doing nothing this.
      I also checked the PSU independently using paper clip method and voltmeter, it's working fine.

      • greatlamp on 30/01/2016 - 08:30

        Sorry to ask the obvious but did you replace the ram or simply remove it?

        Also MB speaker would help with diagnosis, the beeps are different depending on the error on some boards

    • dogboy on 29/01/2016 - 20:16
      +4

      Why the hell are people negging this?

  • scrimshaw on 28/01/2016 - 19:41
    +4

    Your motherboard is toast then. The if you're absolutely sure the power supply works, and you've tried to boot the PC without any RAM or GPU plugged in, then it's the motherboard.

    It's very hard to diagnose what exactly is wrong with the motherboard — usually the first point of failure is something power related, which is diagnosed by testing with a different power supply, and then testing the motherboard outside of the case to ensure that the case is not causing an electrical short.

    I also had a system with the exact same issue. It was caused by poor soldering (the circuit is broken as the metal contracts in the cold) and whenever the ambient air temperature was cold, the PC would not boot until it had completed powering on and off for about 5 minutes. I pinpointed this issue by pretty much replacing ALL the parts of my computer except for the CPU and memory.
    I don't have this issue in summer though.

    • CI on 28/01/2016 - 19:49

      that was my first instinct.

      • dogboy on 29/01/2016 - 20:17

        I have had the same issue on 2 old PCs and ended up being the MB.

  • kywst on 28/01/2016 - 19:41

    It's almost as though the physical button mechanism isn't triggering its catch and as soon as you release it cuts … unless that's the power button on the front and the ticking noise is just the initial fan movement or PSU …

    • CI on 28/01/2016 - 19:49

      Not sure where the ticking noise is coming from

      • scrimshaw on 28/01/2016 - 19:50

        That's the sound of the power supply switching on and off. Most PSU's have a tick sound when they cut the power.

        Could also be a fan but the ticking noise is actually 'normal' and not a cause for concern.

      • kywst on 28/01/2016 - 19:53

        What PSU is it? Also GA-P55-UD3R?

        • CI on 28/01/2016 - 20:03

          Thermaltake 500, 350Watts.

        • kywst on 28/01/2016 - 20:16

          @usama91: Model? Seen a couple of Thermaltake 500, 350Watts but they don't look like the one in the video.

          PSU set to 110v? (long shot)

        • kywst on 28/01/2016 - 20:38

          @usama91: While you're checking the on the PSU model. Disconnect the 8 pin EPS and try powering. If the PSU doesn't cycle then it's reasonable to assume the issue lies in the MB's EPS input which is bad news for your MB. Try this.

          Also try different DIMMs for that RAM module.

  • airzone on 28/01/2016 - 21:39

    I had a dead cpu that caused the same type of issue. It was frustrating, but I did have a spare available to test and was able to do a warranty job.

    Realistically, if it's not a PSU problem, then it could be motherboard, cpu, or ram.. And in which case - judging by the apparent age of the PC - you'll be upgrading all 3.

  • PJC on 28/01/2016 - 22:45
    -1

    Might it be overheating - perhaps at the CPU or GPU? Try again while a hairdryer blows cold air into it.

  • bjdchwr on 28/01/2016 - 23:07
    -1

    I had the same issue with one of my clients before. I swapped the RAM and it worked again.

    Maybe you can try even a more aggressive way to remove the RAM. It won't boot of course but you might see the difference.

    • CI on 28/01/2016 - 23:18

      Tired that already, no difference

  • ArnoldIsComing on 29/01/2016 - 03:14
    +6

    Hi there OP.

    Long time lurker, first time poster.

    After watching your video i would almost certainly say that the motherboard is your problem (possibly failed/popped/leaky capacitors - there could be flux stains near them or you could see raised heads instead of flat tops on them), if the PSU was entirely faulty you would most likely get nothing or a slight smell when you press the power. However, Thermaltake 500 350W is their budget grade PSU and for ease i would test with a new or known working one to confirm this if the capacitors on the MOBO "appear" ok.

    RAM/GPU/CPU issue will not cause a PC to cycle power and fail post, with RAM issue you will get POST errors (beep sequence for failure), GPU no display but power will stay on, CPU - power will still stay on even during peak thermal event.

    Good luck!

    Source: Computer hardware technician dating back to 386 mobo's :-)

    • CI on 29/01/2016 - 20:56

      Thanks for your hep mate.
      I will try to get my hands on another PSU and give it a go on the weekend.

  • BobD on 29/01/2016 - 08:29

    I had a mate with this problem on his PC. I theorised the crap out of it until I got a look at it. I found the power button was binding and slow to release after switching on. This caused it to then continuously cycle until it popped out again.
    I sprayed it with some Selleys Ezy Glide to fix it.

  • elvino on 29/01/2016 - 09:30
    +2

    Similar to some of the other posts above, I had a similar issue a couple of years ago, which I thought Id pass on (just in case).

    After a lot of trouble shooting, we ended up booting up the board outside the case, removing the power/reset switch connector from the motherboard, and booted it up at the motherboard only.
    Sure enough, it booted just fine - it was the power button on the case that was faulty.

    • cypher67 on 29/01/2016 - 09:44
      +1

      I second this possibility, seen it a few times. Some mobos have a button that can start it without the case pins or u can just jumper it.

    • CI on 29/01/2016 - 20:55

      I will give this ago on the weekend. Thanks for your help.

  • cypher67 on 29/01/2016 - 09:42
    +1

    I worked in PC repairs for a year and this was roughly what I did with success.

    Haven't ready everyone else's replies, but I would:
    1. Check the mobo for blown/bulging capacitors or any burn marks in general
    2. Disconnect everything from the motherboard inc fans, power supply, even pull out the CPU, Sata cables & Case plugs.
    3. Remove the Bios battery and put it between a key ring so that the metal touches both sides of the button for 20 seconds to reset it.
    4. Using contact cleaner if you have it, or something (fine paint brush) to ensure all the contacts in the Ram slots & PCI-e slots etc are cleaned and not shorting it
    5. Reinsert the Bios battery, CPU w/heatsink & ram (1 stick - alternative if unsuccessful) and try fire it up.

    All else fails you would really need to try replacement parts before you could officially rule out the Mobo. I know you said you tested the PSU but until you have used items that you know to work in replace of it, its anyones guess. Good luck

    • Gelf54 on 29/01/2016 - 13:37
      +1
      1. Remove the Bios battery and put it between a key ring so that the metal touches both sides of the button for 20 seconds to reset it.

      WT? You should be shorting the contacts of the motherboard battery socket, not the battery. Check the 3V battery voltage with a multimeter if you can while it's out.

      • scrimshaw on 29/01/2016 - 13:46
        +1

        Actually sometimes there is specifically a CMOS CLEAR jumper on the motherboard. It's not very clearly marked though. He might be referring to that

      • dogboy on 29/01/2016 - 20:18

        Yeah, I was like WTF on that as well..

  • Slippery Fish on 29/01/2016 - 09:59
    +1

    I read half of the posts but got lazy, so sorry if I rehash.

    Id
    1.dust your pc if not done.
    2.Pull mobo out of the case, keep ram ect in it and use a psu to test off bench, sometimes for no reason the mobo can short out on the case, so worth checking. To start you just connect the power pins on Mobo with screwdriver.

    If that works yay just put it back in.

    If not then try,

  • chukkii on 29/01/2016 - 13:07
    +2

    I know how silly this sounds but try taking the MB out of the case completely without any screws

    I had something similar happen to me and it turns out one of the screws were too tight and flexed the MB enough to cause this sort of issue. If not then maybe the MB is just plain dead

    • jnewau on 29/01/2016 - 13:52

      Yep this is a good suggestion. I have seen the same thing happen when there's a short somewhere. Maybe one of those metal motherboard risers shorting somewhere.

  • Dr Techno on 29/01/2016 - 13:40

    Might have a short somewhere, or bad mobo..

  • Zondor on 29/01/2016 - 14:27

    That exact thing happens when the CPU power connectors arent plugged in, So either your psu or that section of your mobo is dead.

  • Hiroko on 29/01/2016 - 15:27

    mobo fried

  • Herbert on 29/01/2016 - 17:16

    I experienced similar problem when my wife pulled my cpu from motherboard and hid it after a fight. The heavy items she put on top of the cpu bent the pins and the PC won't boot.

    She fixed the 11 bent pins with a pencil and problem solved.

    Another possible scenario is cockroaches caused a short circuit somewhere, most likely in the PSU.

  • [Deactivated] on 29/01/2016 - 18:12

    If you have done the normal strip it down to as little as possible and haven't had any luck. Try unplugging the power cable, hold down the power button for ~15 seconds, plug in and try to boot. Sounds stupid but it has worked for me before when all else failed (and I had no spare parts to test with). edit also, make sure you have a pc speaker of some sort attached, it can be helpful in troubleshooting.

  • HADOUKEN on 29/01/2016 - 18:35
    -2

    I can almost certainly say that it is a ram issue. Take all ram sticks out and see if that stops the power cycling.

    • CI on 29/01/2016 - 18:56

      Already tried. As mentioned in comments above.

  • edgar28 on 29/01/2016 - 18:49

    happened to mine before, mine was Graphics card

    replaced it. good for another 6 months, happened again. this time is the motherboard

    time to get whole new desktop.

  • garetz on 29/01/2016 - 20:27
    -5

    You obviously do not know what you are doing, just asking this question on these forums defeats the purpose of asking for help. You know so little, you dont even know what you dont know. So any help you receive here will be the blind leading the blind. Do yourself a favor and take it in to get repaired to your local pc place before you make matters worse.

    • CI on 29/01/2016 - 20:54

      How is your comment relevant or slightly helpful ?

      • bjdchwr on 29/01/2016 - 21:07

        OP I've no offence but why did you -ve other people's comments?

        I am an IT person at my work place and and this is not the way of asking someone for recommendations. This is not the way encouraging other people making contributions to this community.

        PS: please correct me if I am wrong but for many time not all of the people would have time reading every single comment before they share some of their own experience.

        • IceCreamBandit on 29/01/2016 - 21:20
          +4

          Even if OP did -ve that comment, I think it's fair enough.

          Nothing wrong with asking a question, OP has given all the information they have available, and there is nothing wrong with learning more about something and trying to fix it yourself and saving money in the process (That's what OzBargain is about right?).

          PS: please correct me if I am wrong but for many time not all of the people would have time reading every single comment before they share some of their own experience.

          It's not necessary for people to read every single comment, but what experience did garetz share exactly? It was pretty much an uncalled for attack on OP.

        • GoldPhoenix0 on 29/01/2016 - 21:42
          +2

          I totally agree with the above comment. Honestly, just with my experiences with PC's, it's really something that you need to physically be there to solve the issue. Giving everyone a 26 second snapshot of a problem via a video, not even posting any useful information, like a full run-down of the specs of the PC and their age, showing a PC turning of and on again, which could be an issue ranging from internal components (like the PSU or Motherboard, which could still be faulty until it is properly tested), to even an issue with the power point the PC is plugged in with.

          If anyone has ever pulled apart a PC before, you would definitely know that there is an issue (like the one above) which could be caused by certain component, where by process of elimination you can find the root of the problem. Everyone has different experiences, and has a different opinion to add to the pool. From the information given, they give that opinion, and giving responses and negging their comments like the OP has given is pretty disrespectful. Heck, these people have given a minute or more of their time to give responses trying to help someone out… where that same time would cost you upwards of $50 (or a really awkward phone call cost) if you got someone else to look at it.

      • garetz on 29/01/2016 - 23:21
        -6

        You say you did a isolation test, yet what you did is not an isolation test, you dont even know what an isolation test is. It is helpful that i pointed out to you that you do not have even a rudimentary knowledge of troubleshooting, so chances are you are going to do more damage than actually fix the problem. So take it in to someone who has professional knowledge of pc repair and can 100% fix the issue. Otherwise you may end up causing yourself alot more damage and repair costs than a simple repair would take.

        I have seen people like yourself take a simple issue that would cost a service charge of 80 dollars to fix, and the cost of the replacement equipment of lets say the motherboard, who ended up shorting their entire system, then costing them up of 1500 bux to replace.

        Ive been in the industry over 25 years, so believe me, when i say, you do not have the working knowledge to fix this yourself.

        The video is so woefully inadequate of even starting to troubleshoot the issue, that you are working from a position of ignorance.

        • IceCreamBandit on 30/01/2016 - 07:23
          +2

          You say you did a isolation test, yet what you did is not an isolation test, you dont even know what an isolation test is. It is helpful that i pointed out to you that you do not have even a rudimentary knowledge of troubleshooting, so chances are you are going to do more damage than actually fix the problem.

          You say that OP is struggling with a problem. OP is trying to solve the problem, but what are you actually saying to help OP solve the problem other than saying OP doesn't know how to solve the problem?

          I have seen people like yourself take a simple issue that would cost a service charge of 80 dollars to fix, and the cost of the replacement equipment of lets say the motherboard, who ended up shorting their entire system, then costing them up of 1500 bux to replace.

          That's why OP is here, giving as much information as they can to get advice from people here.

          Ive been in the industry over 25 years, so believe me, when i say, you do not have the working knowledge to fix this yourself.
          The video is so woefully inadequate of even starting to troubleshoot the issue, that you are working from a position of ignorance.

          Ok industry expert, with your over 25 years of experience, surely you'd know instantly what the problem is and be able to fix it? If OP is ignorant and you've been doing this for over 25 years, then help OP out and stop with the belittling!

        • DrDollar on 30/01/2016 - 07:57
          +2

          Lol computer hardware is easy. Building them is like playing with blocks. Isolation tests diagnose 90% of PC issues like this with personal computers.

          OP is doing fine. Thanks for sharing your 25 years experience though!

          OP should try swapping out the PSU, check the power key is not sticking and if this fails invest in a new mobo, CPU and ram based on the age of the mobo in the video likely caps on the mobo have fried if it is not a PSU issue.

  • photonbuddy on 29/01/2016 - 23:08
    +2

    Just thought I'd post on the PSU 'testing' done by OP.

    I have a PSU checker which tells me all the voltages on the various connectors.

    I recently had a PC that was doing this exact same thing. The only difference was, this was a Dell.

    The PSU was coming up as fine, and so after dicking around with several solutions, I decided to use a spare PSU, just to complete my testing before telling the client his PC was cactus.

    New PSU fitted, and away she went.

    Why?

    The Dell (in particular) has far too many smarts for it's own good, and my guess is that one of these smarts had failed.

    Most motherboards have some form of on-board power protection using various types of magic to determine of the PC should start or not.

  • cryptos on 30/01/2016 - 00:01
    -1

    Thanks, this thread has been fun :)

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