This was posted 8 years 11 months 12 days ago, and might be an out-dated deal.

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Shimano Ultegra 11sp Full Groupset $658.82 (Usually ~$800-$900) Delivered from PBK

650
Shimano Ultegra 11sp Full Groupset $658.82 (Usually ~$800-$900) Delivered from PBKAffiliate
Go to Deal
ChickenTalon on 11/01/2016 - 12:40 probikekit.com.au (2349 clicks)
Last edited 11/01/2016 - 12:53
5AU
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Could endup costing around $635 with CR or PricePal. Outstanding price.

Noticed this excellent groupset has now gone on sale at a few places now but PBK has it for easily the lowest price I've ever seen. Similar to Dura-ace quality shifting but for a fraction of the price. Don't forget to use the code 5AU.

Cashrewards (3.2%) and PricePal (3.6% founder lvl) also have cashbacks on this. However I've noticed that you wont get it calculated on the full purchase amount, they usually subtract the "approximate" delivery costs from the total price (even though delivery is free). You also might not get it by using the coupon, but I've not had problems with this in the past.

Also has the compact crankset version for 666.89.

This is also the full version of the groupset that includes everything. A lot of "groupsets" advertised exclude items like the brakes and bottom brackets assuming people are upgrading

Brakes

With new polymer-coated BC-R680 cables, new brakes give smooth, light operation with excellent modulation
Greater braking power modulation
Brand-new SLR with 2 axle symmetric brake caliper
New Brake shoe compound (R55C4)
Adjustable toe-in brake shoes
Spring tension adjuster

Cassette Sprocket

Rider tuned wider gearing options with 11-speed
Available in 11-23T, 11-25T, 12-25T and 11-28T (this includes 11-28T)

Chain

SIL-TEC coating 11-speed chain

Crankset ( Bottom bracket is BSA threaded english standard )

Dura-Ace proven 4-arm design: Same stiffness and lighter weight
14g lighter weight and half the friction of the SM-BB6700, while maintaining the same durability
Gearing 53x39 (this includes 175mm cranks)

Front (BSA threaded english standard ) and Rear Derailleurs

More equal shifting effort throughout the full range of the cassette
Maintains precise shifting over an extended time period
Wide link design increase rigidity and reduces shifting deflection
Braze-on fit as standard; if your bike does not have a braze-on mount seat tube adapters are available

Shifter - STI Dual Control

Tactile feedback to the rider that the gear shift has been completed
Light action, define click engagement Vivid index shifting
Short lever stroke response
Powerful and controllable braking system
Carbon brake lever
New Ultegra Polymer-coated Shift Cable

Sports & Outdoors Bicycle Accessory Shimano

Related Stores

Evans Cycles
Evans Cycles

closed Comments

  • 8azinga on 11/01/2016 - 12:48
    +1

    Limited options. Only 175mm cranks in 11-28 with 53/39 or 12-25 with 52/36

    • ChickenTalon on 11/01/2016 - 12:51

      That's correct. added to details. The 175mm might not be for everyone, but that 11-28 has the most useful range for the full sized cranks.

      Compact set also has 50/34 172.5mm cranks with 11-25 cassette.

    • siuol on 11/01/2016 - 13:27
      +1

      99% of cyclists will not realise the difference of 5mm

      • cryptos on 11/01/2016 - 14:42
        +4

        Sure but depending on frame size your foot may touch your tyre when turning the wheel

        • siuol on 11/01/2016 - 14:50
          +1

          True, didn't think of that!

      • n2o spark on 11/01/2016 - 17:53

        maybe if they are super new to cycling, but the difference between 172.5 and 175 is really noticeable. If you're riding a 56cm frame or larger you probably are tall enough to want 175mm cranks anyhow. ( and your bike should be spec'd stock with 175mm cranks )

        If you're riding a frame size less than 56cm, and you prefer to push a harder gear at a lower cadence, then 175mm cranks would be worth a go.

        rough guide to crank length for newbies
        ( +/- 2cm )
        46-50cm frame ( horizontal top tube length ) 170 mm
        50-56cm frame ( horizontal top tube length ) 172.5 mm
        56-60cm frame ( horizontal top tube length ) 175 mm

        correct crank length will help you maintain a high cadence and reduce muscle fatigue.

        • prhino on 11/01/2016 - 20:43

          Crank length won't be noticed by 99.9% of cyclists, regardless of experience.

        • 2ndeffort on 11/01/2016 - 23:01
          +1

          Gotta dance like Lance…Spinners are Winners, No fun grinding out those big cranks at a low cadence in the hills!!

  • BamBam cheapsk8 on 11/01/2016 - 13:02

    I commute wirh ultegra, love it. Pinky changes.

  • ChickenTalon on 11/01/2016 - 13:05
    +1

    Some really good bargains on PBK right now.

    This is an amazing wheelset Campagnolo Shamal Ultra Dark Label. Equivalent to the Fulcrum Racing Zeros, but with the 5AU code for $982.29. Although only avail in Campag freehub at the moment. That's a great price and under the $1000 GST threshold.

    Just make sure you don't buy it with anything else :)

    • guyvb on 11/01/2016 - 13:49
      +1

      Best prices I've seen on Ultegra Di2 groupsets as well. Does anyone have any experience with how vigilant Customs are with purchases over $1000?

      Then again though, $1361 for a pro-compact groupset, even after an extra 10% GST it's still a great price.

      • ChickenTalon on 11/01/2016 - 13:57
        +2

        Pretty vigilant with anything over ~$1100. In my experience I've never had problems with a few deliveries under that amount but over $1k, they convert it into pounds on the declaration, and I think customs are generous with the exchange rate.

        I got the Di2 as an upgrade kit, shifters and mechs only. So it was under $1000. But I haven't seen many of these around lately. Btw, Di2 is simply awesome, if you're thinking about it then do it. Just be very very careful with planning your parts and cable routing. It's rather complex depending on your frame, I wouldn't use it on a non-Di2 frame. I had to buy a few extra parts, internal junction box and different cable lengths (these weren't cheap as separate items).

        • guyvb on 11/01/2016 - 14:07
          +1

          Thanks for that. I'm actually looking at upgrading from the first generation Ultegra Di2 10 speed. I know 11 speed mechanical is very good, but I'm sticking with my electronics :)

        • ChickenTalon on 11/01/2016 - 14:12
          +2

          @guyvb: hehe, I'm in the same boat. I've kept to 10 speed as I've got a few bikes, which I swap parts around on regularly.

          My other bike has older Dura-Ace 7800, which I still think is the best ever Shimano mechanical shifting (before the internal routing came along). They just don't look as clean as the new internal cable design.

        • raisinberry777 on 11/01/2016 - 15:37

          @ChickenTalon: Indeed it won't win awards for prettiness, but Dura Ace 7800 and it's derivatives are outstanding in its performance and reliability.

      • AssociatedPotPlant @ Evans Cycles on 11/01/2016 - 22:16

        Great Prices on Ultegra Di2 6870 over at Ribble Cycles too. I think $1147.00 for the basic kit.

        Edit…my apologies, does not include crankset etc.

        • ChickenTalon on 11/01/2016 - 22:21

          Yeah. That's the ultegra di2 upgrade kit, shifters/mechs only. Still a good option for some

  • simonbrads on 11/01/2016 - 13:52

    I am tempted! Been thinking of building myself a road bike for a while. (I'm currently commuting on a mountain bike.) Hmmm…

    • blitz on 11/01/2016 - 13:57
      +2

      DO IT DO IT DO IT DO IT

      • 2ndeffort on 11/01/2016 - 14:44
        +1

        Do it, I built a couple of bikes last year for the 1st time, a roadie and a FS MTB. Cabling was easily the hardest part for me. It gave me a great understanding of how hard it is to fix/adjust and realign the various parts of the bike. Also gave me a great appreciation for things like a 'missing link'chain connector etc. The Park tool website had a great section on building/fixing different parts of the bike and the flo wheels website actually had a downloadable PDF step by step guide to building a bike.

        If you get in trouble your LBS will be able to bail you out.

        • ChickenTalon on 11/01/2016 - 14:53

          Yep, cable lengths are some of the hardest things to get right and can have a big impact on braking/shifting performance. Always use a good cable cutter and cut longer to start with :)

    • ChickenTalon on 11/01/2016 - 14:07
      +2

      I'd say do it also. But be careful with building up a bike from scratch, it's not overly easy unless you're a reasonably competent home mechanic. You'll also need specific tools i.e. BB tool and 11sp chain breaker.

      Replacing a groupset, while still difficult, is a lot easier as all the routing and outer cable lengths you can just cut to match.

      then again, we all start somewhere :)

      • Silicon Wizardry on 11/01/2016 - 14:33
        +1

        Do what I did: build one from scratch yourself, then take it into a good local bike store - tell them what you've done and pay them to go over it (same as for a tune-up) and tell you what you did right and wrong (and ideally show you too). The only problem I had was aligning rear derailleur, and he happily showed me how to do it.

      • Telios on 11/01/2016 - 22:00

        Won't need a BB tool for a standard english thread…

        • ChickenTalon on 11/01/2016 - 22:05

          ? How will you install the hollowtechII BB then?

          You'll need one of these (or similar) to do it properly: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/au/en/park-tool-external-…

          Standard English thread just refers to the thread in the frame, typically English (both bracket sides tighten with the pedal stroke, one side is counter threaded) or Italian (thread the way that they face, like a screw on each side)

          Here is more information than you'll ever need (from Sheldon Brown may he RIP) http://www.sheldonbrown.com/cribsheet-bottombrackets.html

        • Telios on 12/01/2016 - 23:04

          @ChickenTalon: Hah I totally derped and forgot that even though its a standard BSA thread, you'd still need the hollowtech specific shenanigans. My current bikes are all BB/pressfit, but my previous hardtail was BSA threaded and the cranks attached to the BB by a cap/nut system that required no specific tool.

          Cheers.

    • simonbrads on 13/01/2016 - 13:47

      Thanks for the encouragement, guys. ;) I do have most (I think all) of the tools I'd need to build a bike.

      I passed on this deal, however. I realised that one thing I'm not willing to compromise on is that my build will have disc brakes. I know a lot of hardcore roadies aren't convinced by them, but I absolutely love the brakes on my MTB (I've never felt rim brakes that come anywhere close), and I will have discs on my road bike, too. :)

  • shroomish on 11/01/2016 - 14:22

    does it come with a free bike?

  • debo on 11/01/2016 - 14:27

    yeah does this include the wheels and frame???

    • cryptos on 11/01/2016 - 14:52

      Don't you mean pedals?

  • pitiek on 11/01/2016 - 14:49

    I need to warn you, delivery time is shocking.

    Ordered several items on December 12th and I have not received the items yet whilst Wiggle order on the 20th showed up last Monday.

    Their customer service is non existent since I have sent several messages asking for a tracking number and delivery updates.

    Buyer beware…

    http://www.wiggle.com.au/shimano-6800-ultegra-11-speed-group…

  • Springfield on 11/01/2016 - 14:51
    +1

    Got my son a $50 gear bike from Big W in there end of year sales.
    It's got Shimano gears do you think I should upgrade his bike with this bargain?

    • cryptos on 11/01/2016 - 15:01
      +1

      Like comparing a moped to a Ninja

    • 2ndeffort on 11/01/2016 - 15:11
      +4

      Yep, great idea, do it and post us up the pics. Let us know how you go with the Bottom Bracket!!!

    • steelpanther on 11/01/2016 - 21:35

      I wouldn't.. getting better gears and brakes then just makes another part of that cheap bike the weak point e.g. the frame, the wheels etc. I personally wouldn't touch any bicycle from either Big W or K-Mart. Better to pay extra at a bicycle store and have something that will last a while.

    • slipperypete on 12/01/2016 - 01:13

      would you pay for and put Ferrari brakes on a Kia?

      Pretty sure you are only joking anyhow ;-)

  • peterpeterpumpkin on 11/01/2016 - 14:53

    Thanks for the venting space. Just wanted to say bike parts are so expensive in Australia (though the world generally) and I've been mixing and matching abandoned bikes to get by. Can't believe what just a new tension wire costs…

  • cryptos on 11/01/2016 - 15:00

    I opted for the Campagnolo Athena for around the same price, http://www.wiggle.co.uk/campagnolo-athena-alloy-11-speed-gro… only 170mm + 175mm options left, 1.6% on cashrewards

  • wtfnodeal on 11/01/2016 - 15:18

    out of topic here, any recommendation to get a cheap MTB shifter brake lever combo for a 3x8 and cable disc brake? thanks

  • 2ndeffort on 11/01/2016 - 15:19

    I've been riding a Trek Madone with this Gruppo for the last couple of years and loved it. On my second BB, chain and casette, probably need a new chain/cassette combo soon. Madone is an 'endurance' bike designed to soak up the bumps and keep me in a 'comfortable' riding position (which normally means a higher head tube). It would be great to buildup something more aggressive, quicker and lighter for 60Km ish rides on a weekend in the hills. Something scarily fast that climbs like a Mountain Goat. I dont have the $10K needed available for a Canyon Aeroroad or the new Madone but it would be interesting to find a 1 or 2yo NOS frame, attach one of the Di2 groupsets listed here and some light 30mm carbon wheels. Aside from the 'Chinarello' path, any good frame deals going around? I know Pushys had some Eddy Merckx frames on special.

    • ChickenTalon on 11/01/2016 - 15:25
      +1

      80% of the performance of a bicycle is in the wheels, specifically the rear wheel. Flex there accounts for most of the power loss. If you're using the wheels that they ship with an Ultegra equippied Madone then you'll get a huge performance gain over those bontrager wheels. Assume they're the Bontrager Race?

      Get yourself something like these: http://www.campagnolo.com/AU/en/Wheels/wheel_shamal_ultra which can be had for just under $1k if you shop around. The difference will be huge.

      I would have previously said Mavic Ksyriums, but the new breed of those (no longer built in france) are poorly built and don't seem to last as long.

      Btw love the Madone, I have a 2008 running Easton EC90SL wheels. And an Emonda with compact rings and Campagnolo Shamal wheels for hilly stuff.

      • 2ndeffort on 11/01/2016 - 15:42

        When i bought the bike 2 years ago i managed to get the LBS to trade the value of the stock wheels (Bontrager RL) against a set of Bontrager RXL and I've been running those in 25 tubeless with some Schwalbe 1 tyres. Tubeless is awesome, on the right road/day it feels like i am almost floating! RXL have been great but it would be nice to try something else. I nearly bought some DA C24 from PBK a week or 2 back, they had the tubeless clinchers for under $1K. It would be nice though to try something 'Aero'. The RXLs are tough as nails but not particularly aero, I am used to the weekly shop ride where the last 10kms is a long descent followed by a flat 3 kms race to the coffee shop. I can often hear the 'whoosh' as the guys with Zipp and FFWD wheels go by on their aero deep dish wheels.

        Mate has the Campy Boras and swears by them, I'll have a lookout for Shamals.

        • ChickenTalon on 11/01/2016 - 15:52

          Smart move. Those RXL wheels are highly rated (I've never used them though).

          IMO next step up is a huge increase in price for a fairly little gain, especially if you're riding in a group and not into the wind so much yourself. All being equal, increasing the weight at the rim (bad) with a deep dish is actually a performance penalty when you are riding in a bunch. So you need to spend up big for some very light weight rims. The RXL wheels you have should be pretty stiff and efficient.

          Edit; saw your comment below.
          ahh, the Domane is supposed to be very inefficient (although comfortable) due to the suspension. Perhaps there is a good performance gain to be had by changing frames.

        • guyvb on 11/01/2016 - 16:00
          +1

          +1 for the 25mm Schwalbe 1 Tubeless - I'll not be going back to 23's :)

        • slipperypete on 12/01/2016 - 01:40

          @ChickenTalon:

          Hey you sound like a good person to ask some q's?!?

          I've just got into road biking (big MTB'er) and live in country WA. I am riding the back roads that are potholed like buggery (near Pinjarra if interested). I bought a Giant Advanced SL1 2015, mainly because got it at a ridiculous price (typical of an ozbargainer). I know its not ideal for rough roads….or a 49 year old, or an endurance rider but am enjoying it and didn't notice a massive difference to a Giant Defy.

          A few areas….any recommendations for saddles?…looking at comfort I guess! Is there gonna be a big improvement with 25mm tyres? Also It has a decent set of std rims, not sure if worth the upgrade, and lastly is it worth going tubeless?

          Ha ha I know lots of questions but sometimes it's nice to get an opinion from someone who may look out for relevant and worthwhile bargains

          Cheers

        • slipperypete on 12/01/2016 - 01:41
          +1

          @guyvb:

          Noted :)

        • ChickenTalon on 12/01/2016 - 08:40
          +1

          @slipperypete:

          Hey you sound like a good person to ask some q's?!?

          I'll try, but I'm certainly no expert

          I've just got into road biking (big MTB'er)

          We all make mistakes, good to see you on the right path now

          potholed like buggery

          I'll take that literally, make sure your bike seat is flat

          bought a Giant Advanced SL1 2015

          Nice, I've never ridden a Giant, but I've heard that they are excellent for the money

          any recommendations for saddles?

          This is a really hard thing to help with, first step is to make sure that the bike is fitted correctly. You don't need to spend hundreds on an expensive bike fit initially, but you need to ensure that you're set up correctly. If you haven't already, get a basic fit from your LBS, where they just measure you and then measure the bike.

          On to saddles. Padding is not necessarily your friend down there, if anything it can cause sideways movement between you and the hard parts of the saddle. Unfortunately it's a bit of trial and error to find the right one. Some bike stores have "tester" saddles that you can borrow for a week and put a few Ks into. I'd recommend this. Your Giant should be pretty comfortable over bumps as they build them for good sideways stiffness and reasonable vertical dampening.

          Me personally. I found the Fizik Arione CX to be the best saddle. It has less padding than the Arione which I found terrible.

          Is there gonna be a big improvement with 25mm tyres?

          Get some and try them out :) http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/au/en/tyres/road-tyres?ss…
          A lot of people swear by the 25mm tyres, which do much better on the rough stuff.

          Tubeless might also be a great idea to avoid pinch flats on bad roads. You can run lower pressures without worrying about cutting your tube open on a sharp pothole edge. You've gotta have tubeless wheels though, I wouldn't recommend mucking around with an aftermarket tubeless kit.

        • ChickenTalon on 13/01/2016 - 09:27
          +1

          @ChickenTalon: and, coming from a MTB background. If you haven't already, make sure you ditch the shy shorts. You're a real man now. Get some well fitted bib nicks, these also have a significant impact on comfort down there.

        • slipperypete on 13/01/2016 - 21:45

          @ChickenTalon:

          Not giving up the MTB riding by a long shot….however I'm quite surprised how much I'm enjoying the road biking. Still, I'm not ready to switch to the dark side….let's just say I am bikecurious :-) quite happy to participate in both!!!

          Yeah, got all new bike gear and all lycrad up…hasn't impressed the girls yet so wondering why I'm wearing it!!

          Thanks for the advice though, it's much appreciated. The bike I got is a balls out racing bike and does rattle me a little with all the potholes, the original seat is Arione R3. Pretty small and hard, certainly magnifies the vibrations. The guy gave me a couple of saddles including a Selle gel flow max. It's just a little wide, but the gel does helps with vibration. Great idea with test saddle, will have to give that a go.

          Rims are tubeless ready so think will do that and get some 25mm as have nearly worn these. I'm often cycling in remote areas so the tubeless may be perfect.

          Thanks again…..and if you ever get bored riding in a straight line, don't be shy…hop on a MTB and be a real man ;-)

        • slipperypete on 13/01/2016 - 21:47

          @guyvb:

          Having trouble finding a retailer for these. Where did you get them and roughly how much were they. Can find 23mm but not 25's

        • ChickenTalon on 14/01/2016 - 09:22
          +1

          @slipperypete: That's the thing with tubeless. Hasn't really taken off like it was predicted to ~5 years ago. Few manufacturers making them and limited stock around the place.

          I personally haven't bothered. I"m happy with my Michelin Pro 4 and lightweight inner tubes.

        • guyvb on 14/01/2016 - 11:09
          +1

          @slipperypete: Yeah, they can be hard to find. Last pair I bought from Curve Cycling in Melbourne, but I just checked their website and they don't have 'em listed any more. Which is a bugger because I'm gonna be ready for a new pair soonish.

          bikecurious :)

        • slipperypete on 14/01/2016 - 12:15

          @ChickenTalon:

          Saw this, looks like a pretty good deal for 2 plus 2 tubes. Compared to CRC which has one for $84

          http://www.probikekit.com.au/bicycle-tyres/michelin-pro4-end…

        • slipperypete on 14/01/2016 - 12:20

          @guyvb:

          Will keep an eye out…tubeless is close to a necessity for me on the MTB. I've got another good few months on my tyres but would swap them now just to try out the 25's

        • ChickenTalon on 14/01/2016 - 12:35
          +1

          @slipperypete: that does seem like a good deal. thinking of getting some myself, I run 25mm on my cyclocross bike.

          Can't speak to the "Endurance" model though, I usually run the Service Course, which are outstanding. But it should be good.

        • guyvb on 14/01/2016 - 14:50

          @ChickenTalon: Before I went tubeless, I ran the Pro 4 Service Course a lot. Tried the Endurance once, didn't like 'em much, felt a bit hard. Ended up putting them on some spare wheels.

          @slipperypete: After my post above, went hunting. Found the Schwalbes in stock at abcbikes.com.au for $69 each and free shipping over $100. Ordered a pair at 11:34, got a shipping notification email at 12:30. Pretty happy about that :)

          http://www.abcbikes.com.au/schwalbe-one-tubeless-folding-roa…

        • ChickenTalon on 14/01/2016 - 15:43
          +1

          @guyvb: great price there. I was looking at the reviews for the schwalbes and they're rated very well.

    • raisinberry777 on 11/01/2016 - 15:39

      The Madone isn't their endurance bike, that's the Domane. The Madone is their aggressive race bike, although there are the different geometries of H1 (race) and H2 (less racey).

      • 2ndeffort on 11/01/2016 - 15:44

        Sorry, totally mixed it up, i have the Domane with the iso speed decoupler. Riding buddy has the new aero Madone that looks like a fighter jet, must have been dreaming of it when i typed!!

    • kangaroo on 11/01/2016 - 22:27

      Madone is a race geometry bike, Domane is the endurance model from Trek.

      UPDATE: Posted too quickly, without scrolling down :) I see this has been corrected.

  • Janko on 11/01/2016 - 17:54

    Just snapped my rear derailler last week - given that the bike is 15 years old now and probably hard to get parts for, would I need to replace the groupset or are deraillers pretty much much standard between bikes?

    • 2ndeffort on 11/01/2016 - 19:05
      +1

      Normally it is the derailleur hanger that snaps and the derailleur goes into the spokes of the back wheel!! This is why so many frames nowadays have a replaceable hanger, you just unscrew the derailleur and switch out the old hanger. Unless of course it snapped and went into your wheels at 80 km/hr on a hill somewhere in which case derailleur hangers are probably the least of your worries.

      Groupsets have advanced quite a bit in the last 15 years and potentially your old Dura-Ace 8 speed derailleur is now an 11 speed Derailleur. You should still be able to get a Shimano 8 Speed derailleur but it may not be from the same product line. You certainly couldn't use an 11 speed derailleur with an older 8 speed groupset.

      • Janko on 11/01/2016 - 22:27

        Appreciate the info. Haven't got the bike around to look but looking at specs online it looks to have a Shimano Acera 8 speed and it appears to be so cheap (USD35) to replace the whole derailleur that they didn't bother with a replaceable hanger. Is there much benefit in getting a higher quality 8 speed considering I'm only a casual rider with the kids?

        • ChickenTalon on 11/01/2016 - 22:38

          You may be able to use a shimano 9speed mech ( the shifter does the indexing and shimano 7-8-9 speed use the same ratios) according to the net. Something like this might work

          http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/au/en/shimano-acera-m390-…

          What was the derailleur you broke? How many speed?

        • Janko on 12/01/2016 - 00:04

          @ChickenTalon: With the bike not being where I'm living at the moment, I can only guess it is the Acera 8 speed I mentioned above I see in online specs for the bike. Or do I not understand what you're asking?

        • blitz on 12/01/2016 - 12:09
          +1

          @Janko:

          He's asking for the brand and model of derailleur currently on the bike. My advice: find an 8 speed derailleur and fit that. You could take the bike to your local bike store and have them do it. Should be quite cheap, and will save you hours if you don't know how to trim a derailleur.

        • ChickenTalon on 12/01/2016 - 12:40

          @blitz: +1 take to LBS.

          You'll need a chain breaker (if you don't already have one) to fit it properly, and a connecting pin to put the chain back. Probably easier to visit your LBS.

          trimming part is pretty easy with utube, and something everyone should know how to do to avoid paying others to do it.

  • eug on 13/01/2016 - 02:32

    Out of stock. :(

    • eug on 13/01/2016 - 14:30

      Noticed the compact one was in stock so I quickly bought the last one this morning! Just what I wanted.
      Now, hopefully it fits on my ancient 2000-era entry-level Bianchi. Hoping to replace the 15-year-old daytona/veloce with this.

      The BB looks like it should fit (1.37x24), but dunno bout the wheelset. Hopefully I won't have to spend more!

      • Brick50 on 13/01/2016 - 21:15

        Definately need a new rear wheel…. 11 speed cassettes use a longer freehub body and won't even fit on a 10 speed one.

        • eug on 13/01/2016 - 21:25

          OK, time to look for a new rear wheel!

      • eug on 16/02/2016 - 00:51

        It has been just over a month and PBK still hadn't shipped it yet. I ended up cancelling it and getting a new bike instead!

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