Lens for Canon 1200D

UncommonName on 13/08/2015 - 13:55
Last edited 13/08/2015 - 13:56

I got a Canon 1200D with EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 III lens. Pic

Upon using, I found out it gives shaky image (don't use tripod and will not likely to use in future), has issues with focusing sometimes (slow), also zoom is not great either. Now I'm after an IS lens with focal range of 18-x mm, x is highest focal length but I'm not sure which one will be best for me. You can see that I'm trying to get everything in a single lens, and of course for a lowest possible price!

What do you photography gurus reccomend me getting?

Electrical & Electronics

Comments

  • pinchies on 13/08/2015 - 14:49

    I'd recommend a "standard fast zoom" - http://www.dwidigitalcameras.com.au/astore/Tamron-SP-AF-17-5…

    Its 2x your budget. You might be able to find a used one for $250, but there's no if, buts or maybes, good lenses are expensive. I normally would recommend someone set aside as much money as they want to spend on their camera body, for lenses. At a minimum!

    And no, I wasn't posting a referral link, it just had the referral link from google in there…

    • UncommonName on 13/08/2015 - 14:51

      Thanks, but I prefer Canon lens only.

      • pinchies on 13/08/2015 - 14:52

        You mentioned you are on a budget – canon make the same type of lens, but the price is…. take a look: http://www.dwidigitalcameras.com.au/astore/Canon-EF-S-17-55M…

        • UncommonName on 13/08/2015 - 14:54

          That's an USM. How about just EF-S IS, no STM/USM.

        • pinchies on 13/08/2015 - 14:57

          @bargainaus: Canon don't make one. Hence your options would be limited to sigma or tamron.

        • UncommonName on 13/08/2015 - 14:59

          @pinchies: sorry? The above 18-105 IS is just a standard IS without USM/STM, no?

          Also, Tamron/Sigma has less favorable review than Canon lenses.

        • pinchies on 13/08/2015 - 15:03
          +5

          @bargainaus: Sorry, I was referring to 17-55 lenses only. The 18-135 has a much slower aperture than the f2.8 lenses I was talking about. Less favourable review does not mean unusable, it just means that you get what you pay for. Canon 1200D has less favourable review than 5D MKIII – but there was a good reason you bought that camera.

        • UncommonName on 13/08/2015 - 15:32

          @pinchies: Well I'm just starting, so 1200D is the just one for me now.

        • [Deactivated] on 14/08/2015 - 10:50

          @bargainaus: Canon make lens in many different qualities so that they can sell to people with all different budgets. From my experience Canon's low end lens are very ordinary, definitely not better than some of Sigma' Art series lens. Definitely give the Canon 18-135 a miss as it is soft. The good Canon lenses with the red band will not be in your price range.

      • Dave-o on 13/08/2015 - 15:11
        +1

        The Tamron lenses are pretty good, and can be so much cheaper than Canon lenses because you're not paying for the lens. I know a few professional photographers who use Tamron and swear by them. It could be a good option if you're on a budget.

      • theguyrules on 14/08/2015 - 10:53

        I have this lens. It's awesome.

  • swiggity swag on 13/08/2015 - 15:10
    +5

    The best lens will depend on what you are shooting. You mentioned your photos are shaky, do you shoot mostly in low light? Perhaps you're not using the correct exposure settings. There is no such thing as a perfect lens, you either have to compromise on something or get a specific lens for a specific purpose.

  • Bonsaichop on 13/08/2015 - 15:24
    +2

    You won't like it but spend the money and do it right.. once. Canon 24-105mm F4/L IS. Covers a good range and has stabilisation.

    For myself it's a different story. I used to have a 24-105mm F4/L IS aswell as a 70-200mm F/2.8L IS, found that for most things my 50mm F/1.4 USM did the job just fine in our small studio and the odd occasion I took it out. Pretty good in low light and being a prime lens there's less to think about, just the shot at hand. Sold the other lenses and use a 50mm all day long. It's already outlasted one camera body.

    • Dave-o on 13/08/2015 - 15:42

      Yep, I agree with that. I use a Fuji X100S with a fixed lens (35mm) pretty much all the time. It surprised me how easy it was to do away with zoom.

  • jzdhgkd on 13/08/2015 - 16:19
    +2

    Not sure how you tend to use the camera but have you tried simply upping the ISO to prevent the shake?

    Whole point of a DSLR is to be able to adjust settings to suit the shot =)

    Of course if you're after perfect, grain-free shots then you'd have to get some new hardware.

    For your budget pretty much everything is out of the question besides a grey import or 2nd hand 18-55mm IS and even then I don't think I'd bother with such a minor upgrade.

    I would agree with above posters in recommending a prime. Once you've tried the world of f/1.2 or 1.4 it's bloody hard to go back to anything slower!

  • UncommonName on 13/08/2015 - 17:30

    How about Canon EF-S 17-85mm f/4.0-5.6 IS USM Lens? Will it be better for 1200D?

    • Brouw3r on 14/08/2015 - 14:56
      +1

      Start by reading up on shutter speed, f stop and iso. Start with the f stop as this lens will let less light in than the lens you have. The aforementioned tamron has an f stop of 2.8 which will let in ~3 times as much light in compared with the one you have, resulting in ~3 times faster shutter speed and significantly less "shaky" photos.

      I would suggest just getting the F1.8 50mm lens for ~$100 for shooting in low light.

      If you're finding this all too expensive and confusing, you might be better off selling the DSLR and getting a point and shoot. I eventually gave up, because carrying around the bulky camera and 2 lenses was too inconvenient and I opted for a Fuji x20 which gives comparable photos at 6x4 and even on a 24" monitor.

      Edit: I also wouldn't buy into IS too much, if you're shooting at 1/30 shutter speed with moving subjects, the camera moving isn't the only problem - everything has time to move as well.

  • digitalaxon on 13/08/2015 - 21:14
    +1

    I was going to make a list of suggested lens but photography is not just about the quality of the lens, but also the message/visual you want to convey, what you want to stir inside a person, how the image touches our psyche.

    Rather than suggest a list of lens, I'm going to say invest in a good book so you can learn how to maximise the results of what you have, a more expensive and higher image quality lens will not necessary mean better pictures..

    I will suggest visiting Tony and Chelseas youtube channel which has really good videos on taking photos, tips and tricks (https://www.youtube.com/user/VistaClues) and they also have a digital photography handbook for sale on amazon which is well regarded.

    Also keep an eye out for digital photography free kindle books that are posted here often.

    • UncommonName on 13/08/2015 - 21:23
      +1

      Getting inclined to a Prime lens, now deciding which focal length to buy. Thanks for the links!

      • digitalaxon on 13/08/2015 - 21:40
        +1

        Not a problem.

        Also have a look at https://www.youtube.com/user/MichaelTheMentor

        As you've probably read the f1.8 50mm (Nifty 50) is a good safe bet - its the first prime I've ever bought myself and there is the II and STM version available - the STM being the newer somewhat improved version. Good for taking portrait photos.

        24mm isn't bad either gives you a wider viewing angle as the 50mm can be a bit restrictive.

        Worth mentioning the cheaper 50mm has no image stabilisation unless you go for the more expensive versions.

        • UncommonName on 13/08/2015 - 21:53

          What I understood from my reaserch is, my 1200D has a crop factor of 1.62. So if I get the 50mm, it means I'm actually shooting at 81mm. 40mm turns to 65mm and 24mm turns to 39mm. I have to select carefully based on the actual equivalent focal length. I shoot landscape and portrait, so bit difficult to decide on…

        • digitalaxon on 13/08/2015 - 22:24
          +1

          @bargainaus:

          You are correct about the crop but in the case of 50mm lenses as you are cropping the captured area you actually have less vignetting that would be otherwise experienced on a full frame camera (although its correctable in camera/post processing).

          I don't think you could go wrong with the 50mm given its low price and performance and keep your existing lens for landscape to get a wider field of view or use it to do stitched landscape shots.

          That's not to say the 50mm isn't bad for landscape, doing a quick search on flickr using a few specific keywords (aps-c, canon and 50mm) yields some nice examples of photos using a 50mm for landscape (or least photos marked as landscape).

          https://www.flickr.com/search/?text=50mm%20landscape%20aps-c…

          I'd almost say landscapes and portraits are on either sides of the spectrum so you either get two lenses, each having a strength in that field and designed for it, or get a lens that sits in the middle - but doesn't excel in either.

          Just wondering of the 24mm STM might be more what you're looking for if you are concerned about crop factors, however at 2.8 at the widest it doesn't have the same bokehness that the 50mm has.. It is competitively priced priced (http://www.teds.com.au/canon-ef-s-24mm-f2-8-stm) at around $210 + delivery

          Using flickr we see some nice photos taken with this lens https://www.flickr.com/search/?text=24mm%20STM

          I'd almost suggest trying google images or flickr or other photo sharing sites as well as youtube to enter the lens you are considering and viewing photos/reviews that others have taken to see what results can be achieved with the lens.

          Good luck!

        • ozscharfschutze on 13/08/2015 - 22:30
          +3

          @bargainaus: the 50mm on a crop body is a great focal length for portraits, but not so good for landscape.

          You seem to have swung around completely from what you started off wanting. You wanted a zoom with IS, and now you are going for primes without IS.

          I disagree with some of the above posts about the 24-105F4/L IS. I had it but never liked it, even on a full frame camera. Also 24mm on a crop sensor camera is not wide enough for landscape.

          I personally prefer a general purpose zoom to start off with. After you use it (and a DSLR) for a while, you will have a better idea of what you like/don't like. You can go through your photos and analyse what focal lengths you tend to shoot at. Most people do tend to have "clusters" of photos around certain focal lengths.

          You can then prioritise how you want to spend your money - be it getting primes, longer zooms, ultra wide angles, etc.

          The EF-S 17-85mm f/4.0-5.6 IS USM you mentioned above is a nice choice (just don't confuse it with the newer and better 15-85mm). If you want to stick to a tight budget, you can take a look at the EFS 18-135mm IS STM. Don't be discouraged by the small max apertures, you don't need f2.8 lenses and a 5D to take wonderful photos.

          Also why are you getting blurry pictures? Many factors contribute to the problem, e.g.:
          - are you taking pictures in low light? (I assume you have tried shorter shutter speeds, higher iso, etc. If not, you should!)
          - are you holding the camera right? (I initially had trouble adapting to the larger handgrip and was moving my hand too much to try to press the shutter button) I have seen people taking pictures using liveview inside the dining room of a boat…and wonder why they get a blurry picture!

          I ask because some of these reasons need money to fix, some just need a change in how you use your existing gear.

        • digitalaxon on 13/08/2015 - 22:41

          @ozscharfschutze:

          Some good advice there! I like your idea about taking a set of photos and see what focal lengths one tends to shoot at.

          I bought my 18-135mm from Camerapro being almost half the price of Teds (http://www.camerapro.com.au/canon-efs18-135isst-ef-s-18-135m…) at around $349 — without a box but for that price and getting local stock its a no brainer. Its been that price since May but with the dollar dropping I expect prices to slowly creep upwards as stock is replenished.

          Its a nice solid lens that feels sturdy and the STM focusing is fast and dead quiet on it.

        • UncommonName on 13/08/2015 - 23:03

          @ozscharfschutze: To be honest, having a DSLR is like having an elephant as a pet! need a lot of thinking to work it out. Its a pity that none of the prime lens is IS.

        • UncommonName on 13/08/2015 - 23:05

          @digitalaxon: Thats actually a good lens and its cheap! Its 549 USD on Amazon, so whats the catch here? - http://www.amazon.com/Canon-EF-S-18-135mm-3-5-5-6-Lens/dp/B0…

        • ozscharfschutze on 13/08/2015 - 23:43

          @bargainaus: That's (most likely) a white-box sale - i.e. they are splitting a kit and selling the items separately. Comparing against a retail box, it's a good deal and it looks like you still get full Australian warranty.
          The STM lenses are actually nicer than USMs because they are pretty much silent when you take videos. With the USM IS lenses, you can sometimes hear the IS or AF "whirl" in video mode.

        • ozscharfschutze on 03/09/2015 - 11:41
          +1

          @bargainaus: Forgot to mention Canon does have 24mm, 28mm and 35mm primes with IS. I see that you got the 50mm, enjoy :)

        • UncommonName on 03/09/2015 - 11:50

          @ozscharfschutze: yes, and now I want the 10-18mm IS STM too. :)

  • [Deactivated] on 13/08/2015 - 22:01

    I have the Canon 50mm prime and the Tamron 17-50/f2.8 for my 600d. The Tamron is my lens of choice and I rarely use my 50mm.

  • mistermr6 on 14/08/2015 - 08:42

    With the budget you mentioned I echo other people's sentiments and recommend a prime - either the nifty fifty 50mm f1.8 or even the 40mm or 24mm 2.8 STM's. May not have IS but the wider arpetures will let you take photos with a quicker shutter speed/in lower light without blur.

    Just like bonsaichop my primary lens these days is the 50mm 1.4 (secondary is a 70-200L f4).

    • UncommonName on 14/08/2015 - 11:19

      Ya I'm looking at the Prime too. Have to decide which one to get.

      • tikei on 14/08/2015 - 12:59

        I had a kit lens and bought the 50mm prime because everyone said it's good and cheap. I regretted doing so because that's not the focal length I like to shoot at. It rarely got used.
        You should shoot more with your current lens, changing f-stop, iso, shutter speed if your pictures are blurry. I used to use a cheap canon camera with the kit lens (no IS) and rarely got blurry photos unless it was action shots or at night. Practice more on basic gear before you spend more $$$

        • UncommonName on 14/08/2015 - 13:50

          Don't worry, will wait for a bargain before I buy. ;)
          In the meantime, more practice with the basic kit lens.

  • p1 ama on 14/08/2015 - 12:19
    +2

    Semi-professional (Friday-Sunday) photographer here.

    Let me begin by saying that what you've outlined is a tough, tough ask. You want a lens that will:
    - Have IS
    - Focuses quickly
    - Have a good zoom range
    - Get everything in a single lens
    - Get it for the lowest possible price ($200)

    This is simply, more or less, impossible because of physics and other reasons. I think what you need to do first is to figure out what you're shooting and at what apertures, shutter speeds and ISOs. You also haven't really told us the what 'shaky' means - are you getting motion blur from subjects moving or from your hands moving? If it's the latter, then IS will help you, but if it's the former, there's no point going with IS because IS can't freeze your subject can it?

    I guess the point I'm trying to make here is that the only real viable alternative I can see you going for with your budget of $200 is either an 18-55mm with IS or a 50mm f/1.8 STM. The problem is, you've complained about other things such as slow focusing and having a good zoom range, so neither of these lenses really solve your problem.

    Also, I'm a little perplexed because you're mentioning slow focus, does that mean you're shooting action? If that's the case, IS won't help you.

    Photography is a money hole, believe me, I've got over $10,000 worth in photography equipment sitting around at home plus other things to support my photography business (e.g. editing workstations, software…etc.) and I'll say it again and again, but unless you're willing to learn the ins and outs of photography and the science behind it, you're better off sticking with something like the Sony RX100 IV or a similar 'premium compact' camera, alternatives might be the Nikon P7800 or Canon G1X.

    These cameras actually have faster lenses than most of the kit lenses that come with cheaper entry-level DSLRs. Sorry I haven't been able to really offer much in terms of recommendations, but that's really what it comes down to, you have to be willing to compromise somewhere, whether that be paying a little more, sacrificing a wide zoom range or even using a tripod, something's got to give and that's a lesson you'll quickly learn even when you're using $2,000 lenses.

    • UncommonName on 14/08/2015 - 13:56

      As per the suggestions provided by OZB members, I think I'll get the 50mm f1.8 for everyday, low light, portrait photography. And I'll also keep the basic kit lens for wide, landscape photography (or replace the basic kit lens with the IS STM version, but I think "IS" is not important for wide angle shoots and I don't intend to shoot video so STM would be underused). What do you think?

      • p1 ama on 14/08/2015 - 14:46

        but I think "IS" is not important for wide angle shoots

        Depends how much you intend to use your lens for low light landscapes. Just remember that with IS, you can be shooting at probably 18mm f/3.5, 1/8s, ISO100 and get great shots. Without IS, you'd be having to shoot at probably 1/30s or possibly even 1/60s, and you'd be up at around ISO ISO800. That's the difference between a nice, clean shot and a pretty noisy shot. Your 1200D will be already quite noisy at ISO800, very noisy at ISO1600 and probably unacceptably so at ISO3200.

        I don't intend to shoot video so STM would be underused

        STM is just the motor technology used for the AF motor, has uses far beyond just video.

        STM - Stepping Motor - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stepper_motor
        USM - Ultrasonic Motor - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ultrasonic_motor
        No Designation - DC Coreless Motor - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electric_motor

        Apart from being quieter and more efficient than basic DC coreless motors, STM and USM motors allow lenses to focus more accurately with less chances of backlash and change direction much more quickly, allowing you to move through the focal range much more effectively.

        Today, I would strongly, strongly recommend going for an STM or USM lens.

    • yuuki on 14/08/2015 - 16:05
      +1

      Am a professional photographer by trade - and can say this information is exactly spot on, especially this last bit.

      Was using a G1X as my "always handy" camera for a while when my OMD was undergoing repairs - and can say it quite easily has better glass in contrast to kit-level camera lenses.

      OP, if such a lens existed that fit your criteria, many of us out there would be using it; but unfortunately there is not - this being reason for the versatility of the interchangeable lens system, where you pick the optimum lens you need for a specific shoot/job.

      Would be best to figure out and push the limits of what you have right now to the point you begin to see real limitations. When you have a clear idea of what is a bottleneck for you, that would be the best time to invest in good glass.

  • infinite on 14/08/2015 - 12:37
    +1

    On a serious note, maybe consider laying out a small bit of money for a couple of photography classes.

    I've been taking combat sports photos for years using your same basic lens, amongst others, and I've never had an issue getting great results with poor light & fast moving subjects (the fighters).

  • syousef on 14/08/2015 - 13:57
    +2

    Spend some time on the Internet researching good photograph techniques or buy a book. Youtube and many photography tutorials are free.

    The 18-55 kit lenses have their limitations but unless it's faulty, a shaky image is the fault of the photographer. Understand your equipment and you'll do better.

    • UncommonName on 14/08/2015 - 13:59

      It's my hand that is shaking, lens is fine as it it, but IS would have helped I think (especially for the zoomed in shots). Although I've taken some nice pictures with it :)

      • syousef on 14/08/2015 - 14:04
        +1

        You really need to diagnose your problem.

        If your lens has no IS a cheap replacement would be the 18-55 STM which has IS and is a very sharp lens. It will get you 2-3 extra stops.

        However if your subject is moving it won't matter how steady your hands are and IS will not help.

        If you have physical issues with your hands and being steady you should look into ways to steady your camera. A tripod can be clunky but if you have something stable to rest it on a beanbag will do wonders. Or you could try one of the larger gorilla mini-tripods suitable for a DSLR and use a remote or the self timer.

        Get some help from someone who knows photography and is willing to point you in the right direction.

        If you're tight on money it's especially important to get it right first time so you don't waste an opportunity.

      • digitalaxon on 14/08/2015 - 17:26
        +1

        It's impossible to hold a camera 100% steady for any period of time but one technique you can use is 2 second delay/count down — press the shutter, have the camera count down two seconds and then have it take the photo by which time the movement created by you pressing the shutter should be more or less gone.

        • UncommonName on 14/08/2015 - 17:36

          have the camera count down two seconds and then have it take the photo

          You mean by using Timer?

      • ozscharfschutze on 14/08/2015 - 17:51

        You are holding it wrong :)
        Seriously though, DSLRs are bigger and heavier so if you normally have a steady hand you should not have problems holding a DSLR to take a steady shot under normal circumstances, unless you are a pixel peeper.

      • kolorijo on 14/08/2015 - 18:09

        You need to know what is the limit of the speed that you can do before the shake takes hold, by practice mostly. Know what you want to shoot and adjust your lens into it. Invest in basic photography coursE then decide whether you want to continue with it. Like mentioned before, it can be a real money hole. I had gears worth up to 7k and I wasn't even semi pro, just pure hobby.

  • bjdchwr on 14/08/2015 - 17:51

    I am myself a 70D user and I grabbed a EF-S 15-85 on eBay.

    Good picture quality and IS.

    If you would like to stick to APS-C for a while, I would recommend you to sell your kit lens and pay a little bit extra for 15-85 alike lens.

  • zeomega on 14/08/2015 - 22:25

    What kind of shots are you attempting to take that is shaky?

    I'd like you to consider technique before lens, which best of all is FREE!

    With the proper breathing and holding technique, you can achieve a sharp image with a 1/flength shutter speed. Meaning 1/60 shutter speed @ 60mm is easily achievable. I've shot 1/20 at 50mm that is tack sharp but with real control, it's not easy, but it's possible.

    Breathing wise, it's exactly like shooting a riffle, so google breathing techniques for sniping and that will give you a good understanding of how to breathe to steady your body.

  • CVonC on 14/08/2015 - 23:10

    Sigma 17-50mm f2.8 for $392 oz stock delivered / $369 grey import delivered is a great standard zoom lens.. better (and cheaper in this case) than the tamron equivalent

    Canon 10-18mm f4.5-5.6 IS STM for $367 oz stock delivered / $319 grey import delivered for landscapes

    And ofc the nifty 50 for portraits :)

  • Stevens on 15/08/2015 - 00:19

    Go buy canon 50mm 1.8 for $60
    https://webshop.cashconverters.com.au/item/2206856/canon-50m…

    Or spend some money and get
    Tamron 24-70 f2.8
    https://webshop.cashconverters.com.au/item/2207377/tamron-sp…
    This lens usually goes for $1k brand new, and has vibration control which helps with sharpness

    Cash converters sometimes has really good prices

  • EyyBanane on 15/08/2015 - 08:57

    First off, check your usual shooting settings. Or post a pic here with the exif info so we can help you on what went wrong.

    If you have got a pair of shaky hands, try these techniques before you venture out to change your glass and realize the problem is not with the gear.

    Or buy a 50mm if you regularly shoot in low light.

  • serpserpserp on 15/08/2015 - 16:04
    +2

    I agree with a lot of the advice on here. Ask yourself if no other lenses existed beyond what you have, what could your do to improve your shots? An IS lenses isn't going to help a whole lot if the underlying problems of your shots are fundamental. I'd spend time trying to squeeze perfect shots out of your current setup then reward yourself with a new lens once you start knowing instinctively what limitations your lens has and your saying to yourself "I wish I had this…"

  • drcat228 on 15/08/2015 - 18:40
    +1

    Hi bargainaus, I recently got a DSLR a few months ago and had issues with non-sharp pictures too. Although the thought of getting new gear crossed my mind, I knew that I still hadn't really grasped how to use the camera yet. After reading up on things like shutter speed, aperture and ISO, I'm taking photos that I'm very happy with (no need to buy anything new)!

    I found that this website is a fantastic place to start reading about the basics from: digital-photography-school.com/megapost-learning-how-to-use-your-first-dslr/

    :)

    • UncommonName on 15/08/2015 - 18:57

      I have already gone through that, thanks anyway. :)

  • joshhimself on 15/08/2015 - 22:47

    General purpose: Sigma 17-50 f2.8
    Prime for beginner: Canon 20 pancake.

    Source: own experience as a newbie.

  • UncommonName on 29/08/2015 - 20:45

    Update: Guys, I got the Canon 50mm f1.8 Prime lens from TGG @159$ in the eBay 20% off sale. I love it!! I'm not going back to zoom lens ever, ha ha :)

    • CVonC on 29/08/2015 - 20:57

      didn't wanna go the grey import route from kogan for $135.28?

      • UncommonName on 30/08/2015 - 02:58
        +1

        No, TGG one has 2 years local warranty.

        • CVonC on 30/08/2015 - 03:08

          good choice :)

        • UncommonName on 30/08/2015 - 03:12

          @CVonC: now looking for a Canon 10-18mm ultra wide, but its too pricey for me as new.

        • CVonC on 30/08/2015 - 03:13

          @bargainaus:

          man.. it was $424.95 @ ted's before the discount.. but they took it off ffs. hate them!

        • UncommonName on 30/08/2015 - 03:15
          +1

          @CVonC: yes, look at teds main website, all sorts of camera and lens are surfacing there now. What a tool! I don't understand what they have gained from it.

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