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T6 Car Jump Starter 12000mAh Power Bank US $51.99 Delivered @ GearBest

71
T6

Main Features:
● High capacity battery of 12000mAh is adopted for fast charging
● Support auto 12V emergency jump start and entirely replace the included battery for a car startup
● It also supports general mobile phone / laptops charging and completely can be used as mobile power bank
● With dual USB outputs, you can charge two devices simultaneously
● High luminance and multi-modes LED light
● It is the ideal choice for night shift workers, overtime workers and many others
● Five levels of power display indicate battery status, real-time recharging reminders, automatic shutdown under no-load condition
● Over-current protects the device from overload, making it more convenient, safer and more energy-efficient
● Satre current: 250A
● Peak current: 500A (3s)

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closed Comments

  • Link directs to cart, not to product

    • Thanks just fixed.

  • +4

    Do not even worry about buying from Gearbest. They do not honor $2.99 purchases and do not issue the refund after 55 days the product still is not received and keep sending messages to go to your local post office.
    And we are talking here about US$50 money, forget about it.

    • +3

      same happened to me. Until they improve their customer service, I would avoid.

    • just do a charge back

    • -3

      Do not even worry about buying from Gearbest. They do not honor $2.99 purchases and do not issue the refund after 55 days the product still is not received and keep sending messages to go to your local post office.

      What does this have to do with this product? You do not neg a deal because you are unable to complete a transaction with a vendor. I have purchased from them many times with no problems and spent many hundreds of dollars with them.

      And we are talking here about US$50 money, forget about it.

      Which one is it? You are complaining about a US $2.99 purchase… Sheesh and you come in here to neg a US $50 product! Let it go, it's crazy to carry around such anger over a few dollars.

      You have the option of claiming your money back from PayPal but my guess is that PayPal found that GearBest have done nothing wrong.

      • +3

        You do not neg a deal because you are unable to complete a transaction with a vendor.

        Yeah you do actually.

        https://www.ozbargain.com.au/wiki/help:voting_guidelines

        Negative Vote: Major issues with retailer

        I'd count paying them, never getting the product and getting jerked around as a major issue. And while it doesn't happen all the time with this vendor, it happens a lot enough that whenever their store comes up, people report problems.

        • -3

          I'd count paying them, never getting the product and getting jerked around as a major issue. And while it doesn't happen all the time with this vendor, it happens a lot enough that whenever their store comes up, people report problems.

          You call not receiving a $2.99 item a major issue! LOL do you call an ambulance when you stub your toe?

        • And while it doesn't happen all the time with this vendor, it happens a lot enough that whenever their store comes up, people report problems.

          I haven't been following it, but am wondering - it is the same group of people who repeat the same problems each time?

        • +1

          @Maverick-au:

          I call not receiving an item I paid for and not receiving it an issue yes.

          The very fact that it's, as you put it, only a $2.99 item makes the vendor even worse because it's a cheap and easy fix for the vendor but they refuse to do it.

          Telling you 'oh we sent it, go check at the post office' (when that's their responsibility) and them saying that bs to keep you quiet until the paypal timer on bringing a dispute is a huge red flag of scammers.

          And if I can't even trust them on a $2.99 item, what makes you think I would trust them with more money?

        • +1

          @eug:

          It's entirely possible.

          From memory they were piss-poor at the start with a slew of people complaining on a single post, but gradually they have improved but still are shaking of the early start as far as I can tell. Either that or people just stopped buying from them.

          But the fact remains we shouldn't bully people into not saying anything.

          If they have an issue they can neg and state their issue and people can decide for themselves if they still trust the seller enough.

    • i boght stuff with them twice perfectly fine

      the first one took ages and they refunded me, but it arrived anyway. the second time arrived in 3 weeks as expected

  • +1

    This model looks like the PowerAll that was tested by a cnet author. He seemed happy with it.

    Maybe it's time to get rid of my large SLA jumpstarter!

  • +7

    Perfect for Lamborghini Aventador owners.

    • +1

      Cool. Ordered one then. Never had a flat battery yet but better to be safe than sorry.

    • really? i guess i need to order 47 of them and store them in my bank account

  • +1

    12000 mAh enough to jump start a car?

    • +1

      Yeah, you don't need much capacity to jump start, it's the maximum current that matters.

      • +1

        Just hope he internal circuitry is safe, and plugging your phone in doesn't result in a 500A spike.

  • +3

    Still waiting for my virtual reality glasses from gearbest……………………………………………

  • -3

    There is NO way that this can supply 6kW or 6000W as specified!

    • +3

      There is NO way that this can supply 6kW or 6000W as specified!

      Look at the past deals with similiar products and all the details on how they work is in there. Jump on YouTube and take a look as well.

      The fact is that these products do work.

      • -6

        It may be able to trickle charge the car battery enough to start the car, but it says in the description that it does 12V and up to 500A, which equals 6000W and this is simply not true!

        • +1

          did you watch the videos?

        • +4

          It may be able to trickle charge the car battery enough to start the car, but it says in the description that it does 12V and up to 500A, which equals 6000W and this is simply not true!

          Utter rubbish, these devices can start a car.

          Whilst some of the figures they provide are over stated, the FACT remains that these will still start the car.

          Here is a 12v battery similar to one I use on my drone, I routinely pull over 120amps from these batteries and more for short bursts.

          http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__19153__Turnigy_na…

          Voltage: 3S1P / 3 Cell / 11.1V
          Discharge: 65C Constant / 130C Burst

          65 x 5A = 325A
          130 x 5A = 650A

          Care to make the claim again that these batteries cannot deliver that amount of power?

          Myself and others posted plenty of proof about how these work on this deal - https://www.ozbargain.com.au/node/199163

        • @Maverick-au:

          Interesting link (hobbyking) , maverick.

          The weight of that battery pack is pretty much the same of the jump starter here. But the battery pack, 3S, is rated only 5Ah.

          Uhmm…

          Dunno if the battery pack will actually be 12Ah / 11.1 V…..

        • @Maverick-au:

          Apologies for this late entry.

          You appear to have a quality product with your Turnigy battery pack.
          At a 'nominal' 55.5Wh capacity it can certainly pump out the Amps - 65C, or double that in burst mode being very impressive.
          I suspect there would be a significant drop in voltage to go with this, however.

          This deal is similarly priced to your Turnigy battery pack, but only has a nominal capacity of some 44.4Wh - to go with a quoted 21C draw; or double that for a 3 second burst.
          Out of interest I have asked for details of the number, & type of cells in their integrated battery pack. Eg Four 26650 [nominal] 3Ah cells.
          (The chemistry also being of interest.)

          {I'm interested in LFP cells. BYD (Warren Buffett having taken a significant stake in that Chinese Co.) providing the battery pack for my XO-1, as a robust alternative to Ni-MH!
          Eneloops anyone ;-)
          The 3,000 cycle LFP pack being provided at around $1/Wh.

          The aptly named KILLAcycle used advanced LFP A123 cells to go from 0 - 100kph in less than a second!?
          Pity the [USA] emphasis on marketing, over QC, resulted in this Co. going bust; & being bought out by the Chinese :-)

          As an LED torch tragic I also find the steady 3.2V provided by LiFePO4 cells particularly appropriate for driving an LED.
          Not the steady drop in voltage that occurs with cell depletion for some other Li chemistries - similar to that experienced with primary alkalines [from an initial unloaded 1.6V, down to some 1V or lower].}

          My SLI car battery is rated at under 10C - with significant voltage drop on starting.
          And my [ALDI] SLA Jump Starter with just 17Ah (tho 204Wh with being calculated at 12V (six 2[.2]V cells) has around 5 times the capacity of this 12,000 mAh '3.7V' special.
          LA batteries are heavy, & one can only expect the equivalent of a few hundred 'full' cycles.

          With improving Li chemistries, & cell/pack costs reducing with increased production, we might expect LA to be increasingly outdated ;-)
          I'm getting too old to lug about heavy LA batteries.
          I also look forward to self-driving cars :)

        • @Starflex:

          +1

          12Ah at the 'nominal' 3.7V giving a specified 44.4Wh.

          Conservatively using 250A, with the voltage drop under ~21C load one might only get around 600W for an 'independent' start.

          Might struggle for a 6-cylinder in cold weather.
          Particularly if this battery pack is less than fully charged; or other accessories are on when starting.

        • +1

          @Starflex:

          The weight of that battery pack is pretty much the same of the jump starter here. But the battery pack, 3S, is rated only 5Ah.

          The larger the discharge rate the heavier the battery so don't totally discount the capacity yet, whilst I doubt it is 12Ah it doesn't make a big difference at the end of the day.

          The battery in this starter could also be a 10c/20c battery that is being over driven but for it's application this isn't a problem whereas for a drone with four, six, eight or more motors it would be.

          At the end of the day it's a well priced unit that will do what it says for a fraction of the price of buying locally (supercheap auto 3300mAh for $199!).

  • ● Satre current: 250A
    ● Peak current: 500A (3s)

    How is this measured? Car batteries are typically measured in Cold Cranking Amps - CCA, which is a measure of how many amps the battery can deliver at -18C for 30s. Battery performance is markedly reduced when cold and cold engines are much harder to start so this assesses performance in the worst conditions.

    Small cars tend to be >350CCA, whereas for a big diesel 4WD you're looking at ~700CCA.

    The figure above is probably tested in a favourable warm environment. Peak current is essentially meaningless on a cold engine. I reckon the CCA would be much lower.

    • My favourite feature

      With this car jump starter power bank, you would never suffer below circumstance

    • How is this measured? Car batteries are typically measured in Cold Cranking Amps - CCA, which is a measure of how many amps the battery can deliver at -18C for 30s. Battery performance is markedly reduced when cold and cold engines are much harder to start so this assesses performance in the worst conditions.

      I don't see how any of this is relevant to the product? CCA is meaningless and is a guess at capacity and cannot be measured but has nothing to do with these devices.

      These products work the same way as jumper cables and that is they provide a boost to the car battery to start your car but they can also start a car without a car battery.

      Small cars tend to be >350CCA, whereas for a big diesel 4WD you're looking at ~700CCA.

      And these devices work with all sizes of engines, smaller ones work with smaller engines and larger ones with larger engines but it depends on what the problem is with the existing battery and it's current condition.

      • +3

        I don't see how any of this is relevant to the product? CCA is meaningless and is a guess at capacity and cannot be measured but has nothing to do with these devices.

        CCA most certainly is measured. It is the current the battery can supply for 30s when at -18C without dropping below 7.2v (SAE).
        It is not a measure of capacity at all!
        Capacity is indicated by the amp-hours (AH) at a low discharge rate and by the Reserve Capacity (RC) at a 25a discharge.
        However capacity it not a useful indicator of starting performance as the voltage will drop with high-current loads. If the voltage gets too low when starting then your car will not start and the battery capacity go unused.
        To mitigate this the battery needs to be designed to supply high currents.

        Most jump starters do not give any indication of how the values are achieved. How long can it supply 250a for? What is the voltage drop? What temperature was it tested at? Without this information you can't be sure this will start your car in your environment.

        • +1

          CCA most certainly is measured. It is the current the battery can supply for 30s when at -18C without dropping below 7.2v (SAE).

          "A full CCA test is tedious and is seldom done. CCA cannot be “measured” but only “guessed” and the process can take a week per battery. To test CCA, apply different discharge currents to see which amperage keeps the battery above a set voltage while in frozen state. Table 2 illustrates the procedures of SAE J537, IEC and DIN. The methods are similar and only differ in the length of discharge and the cut-off voltages."

          http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/how_to_measure_ca…

          "Accuracy has always been a question mark and CCA is especially difficult to verify. CCA is affected by state-of-charge (SoC) and and other factors"

          http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/how_to_measure_cc…

          It is not a measure of capacity at all!

          I wasn't referring to the capacity of the battery but rather the the CCA figure is nothing but a guess based on measurements for that battery. It was a poor choice of word.

          capacity
          kəˈpasɪti/Submit
          noun
          1.
          the maximum amount that something can contain.
          "the capacity of the freezer is 1.1 cubic feet"
          synonyms: volume, cubic measure; More
          2.
          the amount that something can produce.
          "the company aimed to double its electricity-generating capacity"

          Most jump starters do not give any indication of how the values are achieved. How long can it supply 250a for? What is the voltage drop? What temperature was it tested at?

          Why is it relevant? They either work or they don't. Every car is different and if you frequently drive in below zero temperatures you will want a larger unit to start the car. The lead acid battery starters like the Porta-Jump (www.porta-jump.com) doesn't list any specifications like that and they have been the biggest seller on the market for over ten years with millions of sales.

          I've already posted an example of a LIPO battery with it's C ratings and shown how much power they can delivery, this unit is listed as having 12,000mAh capacity which will be at 11.1V (3S LIPO).

          If this LIPO is a 3S with 12,000mAh capacity and the figures are 250A and 500A peak this means the LIPO is a 20C constant / 40C burst which is a low end LIPO. Note the first number is CONSTANT which means exactly that and the second figure is BURST which means exactly that.

          Unless there is a standard created and with established methods of measuring it is pointless to expect individual manufacturers to publish meaningless specifications when the specifications quoted are all that is required.

        • @Maverick-au:

          The lead acid battery starters like the Porta-Jump (www.porta-jump.com)

          The Porta-Jump actually uses 20 alkaline AA batteries rather than an SLA. It does mean it's single-use, although it also means you never have to make sure it's charged up, and heat won't damage it as much as a li-ion/poly one.

        • +1

          @eug: Perhaps a use for our many eneloops ;-)

        • @eug:

          The Porta-Jump actually uses 20 alkaline AA batteries rather than an SLA. It does mean it's single-use, although it also means you never have to make sure it's charged up, and heat won't damage it as much as a li-ion/poly one.

          I'm thinking of a similar one that has a small SLA inside but the Porta-Jump is reusable and rechargeable.

        • +1

          @Maverick-au:

          "A full CCA test is tedious and is seldom done. CCA cannot be “measured” but only “guessed” and the process can take a week per battery. To test CCA, apply different discharge currents to see which amperage keeps the battery above a set voltage while in frozen state."

          Yup. The end user never would do it in practice. I imagine it would only be done by the manufacturer of the battery.

          Why is it relevant? They either work or they don't. Every car is different and if you frequently drive in below zero temperatures you will want a larger unit to start the car. The lead acid battery starters like the Porta-Jump (www.porta-jump.com) doesn't list any specifications like that and they have been the biggest seller on the market for over ten years with millions of sales.

          Why is it relevant to know it meets standards? Because it will tell if you the battery will start YOUR car in YOUR environment. In a colder environment you want a larger unit. But how large? Which unit? If they haven't been tested how can you be sure?

          If this LIPO is a 3S with 12,000mAh capacity and the figures are 250A and 500A peak this means the LIPO is a 20C constant / 40C burst which is a low end LIPO. Note the first number is CONSTANT which means exactly that and the second figure is BURST which means exactly that.

          Who's tested the lipo? How has it been done?

          Unless there is a standard created and with established methods of measuring it is pointless to expect individual manufacturers to publish meaningless specifications when the specifications quoted are all that is required.

          There ARE! They are even listed on the sites you've linked!! (How to measure CCA, How to measure capacity).
          SAE, IEC, DIN all have cold current tests. There are also tests for warmer environments.

          Without a standardized test, how can you be so sure that the battery will supply the claimed power?

        • +1

          @megaphat:

          Yup. The end user never would do it in practice. I imagine it would only be done by the manufacturer of the battery.

          I just posted that you cannot measure it at all, it's based on estimation.

          Why is it relevant to know it meets standards? Because it will tell if you the battery will start YOUR car in YOUR environment. In a colder environment you want a larger unit. But how large? Which unit? If they haven't been tested how can you be sure?

          There are no standards for portable jump starters. There are million of variations of vehicles and conditions out there, if you live in an extreme environment or your car is poorly maintained you will want to get a larger unit so instead of buying one that is sold for say a 4 cylinder you would get one that is sold for a larger engine. Your assertion that the manufacturers should test these products with every single vehicle in every single condition is absurd.

          Go to supercheap and take a look at their SLA based car starters where they only state a very generic usage like "good for most medium sized 4 cylinder cars". They sell a few like 900A, 1200A and they even have a LIPO one for $199 that states it's good for a petrol engine up to 2.5litres - http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/batteries-and-…

          Who's tested the lipo? How has it been done?

          The manufacturer sells the LIPO as a certain type and capacity just like car batteries are sold as a certain type and capacity.

          There ARE! They are even listed on the sites you've linked!! (How to measure CCA, How to measure capacity).
          SAE, IEC, DIN all have cold current tests. There are also tests for warmer environments.

          Those tests are for car batteries, I'm was clearly talking about the LIPO cells used in these car starter/usb battery packs.

          Without a standardized test, how can you be so sure that the battery will supply the claimed power?

          It's the manufacturer that tests the product and makes the claim. In this case the manufacturer of the car starter clearly states the capacity is 12,000mAh and has provided the specifications of 250A constant and 500A burst which is what all the other manufacturers also state for easy comparison. Does this one have a 12,000mAh battery? Maybe. Is it good quality? Maybe. Does it matter at the end of the day? Maybe.

          So a standardised test means nothing as this is performed by the manufacturer so they can still overstate the capacity.

        • @Maverick-au:

          There are no standards for portable jump starters. There are million of variations of vehicles and conditions out there, if you live in an extreme environment or your car is poorly maintained you will want to get a larger unit so instead of buying one that is sold for say a 4 cylinder you would get one that is sold for a larger engine.

          True. But you'll also want to know if the battery inside it can supply the current. If the battery inside the jumpstart has a CCA rating which exceeds that of your car, it'll start. Pure and simple (assuming that was the problem).

          Trouble is, as you've noted, most jumpstarters don't provide this information.
          At least with the SCA jumpstarter you can try it and return it if it doesn't meet your needs. This is just about impossible with gearbest.

          Your assertion that the manufacturers should test these products with every single vehicle in every single condition is absurd.

          I never made that assertion (???)

          So a standardised test means nothing as this is performed by the manufacturer so they can still overstate the capacity.

          You don't believe in standardised testing? You don't believe that SAE, IEC, DIN standards help consumers?

          Those tests are for car batteries, I'm was clearly talking about the LIPO cells used in these car starter/usb battery packs.

          Pretty sure you could do the same or equivalent test on any battery.

        • @megaphat:

          True. But you'll also want to know if the battery inside it can supply the current. If the battery inside the jumpstart has a CCA rating which exceeds that of your car, it'll start. Pure and simple (assuming that was the problem).

          You can't measure CCA for a LIPO battery and it's not relevant. And just because a lead acid battery claims to have a certain CCA rating doesn't mean it will start your car, there are so many variables that can come into play here.

          Trouble is, as you've noted, most jumpstarters don't provide this information.

          They provide relevant information such as the capacity (12,000mAh) and the C ratings (250A and 500A burst).

          At least with the SCA jumpstarter you can try it and return it if it doesn't meet your needs. This is just about impossible with gearbest.

          That's a great idea, let's spend three times the amount for a starter with a 40% of the capacity! Gearbest will take it back or you could sell it locally if it doesn't work in your car that has sludge for oil.

          You don't believe in standardised testing? You don't believe that SAE, IEC, DIN standards help consumers?

          And who tests the batteries after the manufacturer makes their claim? No-one. Fact: The manufacturer of the batteries has made a claim that is relevant to the usage which is the capacity and C rating.

          Pretty sure you could do the same or equivalent test on any battery.

          Why don't you perform CCA tests on some Eneloops and let us know how you get on.

        • @Maverick-au:

          I'm thinking of a similar one that has a small SLA inside but the Porta-Jump is reusable and rechargeable.

          You're right, it's reusable. It does use 20 1,500mAh alkaline AAs according to the manual though, so maybe it comes with a PCR charger. I wouldn't put too much faith in its recharge performance in that case.

  • +2

    I'm absolutely astounded that it will jump start a car. Must have one!

  • +1

    I was going to get the 15000mAh one from Newfrog: https://www.ozbargain.com.au/node/199163 which is currently USD $44.99 (AUD $58.23) with free shipping.

    Is this T6 from Gearbest any better…worth paying more?

    • +1

      Bigger is always better, I suppose. I'll get the 15K one.

    • +1

      Indeed, the more capacity you have, the better it is. Not for the capacity itself, but for the amps that can be drawn.

      Rule of thumb when you get something like this: compare dimensions and (especially) weight.

      If dimensions & weight are pretty much the same, likely the bigger is lying about the true capacity of the cells.

      No-one can do miracles using the same chemistry in cells, therefore…. you cannot have massive differences in capacity and performances with the same dimensions and weight.

  • +1

    My 2c worth ;-)
    (Tho if one took our dollar [bill] from the 1966 advent of decimal currency (Oz funny money) extending past inflation for a further 50 years might cut the value to under 1c. Our WW2 sterling silver '5c' having a bullion value now around $2!
    Inflation - which Govt (tax bracket creep) Business & Negative Gearing profit from: paid for by savers & Pensioners being taxed on 'illusory' inflated earnings.)

    I understand that with higher amperage draws, voltage drops. Perhaps from an open circuit 12V to ~7.2 under a heavy load.
    So converting milliAmps to Amps some 200A independent starting current might only provide around 1400W (or 1.4kW), for a few seconds, from a 12/15Ah pack.

    Around $50 seems a fair price for a standard 12V car 'Li' Jump Starter.
    BUT, I would much prefer 4 3.2V LFP cells giving a safe, & STEADY, draw.

    I believe many Li Power Banks contain just 3 [nominal] 3.7V cells. Initial voltage might be around a charging 4.2V, but, as with primary alkaline cells voltage drops as capacity is used up. Voltage for LiFePO4 cells, although initially lower [as with our eneloops] remaining stable for nearly all cell capacity.

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