This was posted 9 years 4 months 4 days ago, and might be an out-dated deal.

Related
  • expired

24" 120W LED Light Bar $59 (Was $119) - 20% off All Other Items & Shipping Included @ LightLine

20
24" 120W LED Light Bar $59 (Was $119) - 20% off All Other Items & Shipping Included @ LightLine
Go to Deal
Store RepPTimber Screens Aus on 21/07/2015 - 10:01 lightline.com.au (415 clicks)
Last edited 21/07/2015 - 11:15 by 1 other user
20OFFNOW

24 inch 120 watt 4X4 & Offroad LED Light Bar was $119 now $59, SALE till this Sunday. FREE SHIPPING WITHIN AUSTRALIA (items are posted from Melbourne).

The coupon code "20OFFNOW" will give you 20% off all items EXCEPT THE 24 INCH 120 WATT LIGHT WE ARE DOING FOR $59.

Automotive 4WD Car Light LED Offroad Lights

Related Stores

Lightline
Lightline

closed Comments

  • Krazyy on 21/07/2015 - 10:05

    what does everyone think of this???

    • SteveAndBelle on 21/07/2015 - 10:25

      Well, the $59 model uses 'Bridgelux' LEDs, not CREEs. These may be perfectly fine however it's usually best if you spend a bit more and go for CREEs as they have the best reputation and will provide the best light output over the longest life. A mate of mine bought one of the eBay cheapies a few weeks back and apart from the flimsy brackets he said it actually works better than a $300+ version one of his mates uses so price isn't everything… but best to stick with CREEs IMO.

      • Store RepTimber Screens Aus @ Lightline on 21/07/2015 - 10:29

        We have some really good deals on our CREE lights at the moment too, just remember to use the coupon code to get the discounts for them. :)

        • Krazyy on 21/07/2015 - 10:35

          Do they all come with wiring kits?

        • Store RepTimber Screens Aus @ Lightline on 21/07/2015 - 10:43

          @joshuah: No, wiring kits are extra.

        • wfdTamar on 21/07/2015 - 13:41

          @lightline:
          Note - The wiring kits that usually come with light bars are designed for switching them independently - not for having them hooked up to the high beam, so when you dip the high beam the light bar goes off too. I reckon this is so they can sell them as 'Off Road' which means any kind of power. This is particularly because the US market forbids driving lights being used on road. They actually have to be covered too (on road).

          With a bit of hacking you can modify the supplied kits to work with high beam.

        • SteveAndBelle on 21/07/2015 - 14:10

          @wfdTamar: 'Bit of hacking' = use a 12V feed from the High Beam circuit instead of from an 'always on' source.

        • OzBragain on 21/07/2015 - 14:29

          @SteveAndBelle:

          Don't know enough about this to be giving advice but wouldn't you want to wire this back to the battery and just tap in to your high been with a relay? I wouldn't think most factory wiring could cope with the additional power draw.

          Depending on what you're using this for I'd also think about a 3 way switch

          Always on
          Always off
          On with high beam

        • SteveAndBelle on 21/07/2015 - 14:37

          @OzBragain: Yes, I was referring to 'the wiring kit' the others were referring to above and the kit should include a relay. A 120W LED bar will draw 10A so yes although possible to run without a relay with relatively standard auto wiring it really should be run WITH a relay AND its own fuse which I also asume is in the aforementioned 'wiring kit'. If the 'wiring kit' doesn't come with a relay or fuse then it really isn't much of a kit ;)

          Your 3-way switch idea is a good-n however if the cops or DOT really wanted to get picky they could make life hell for you as to my knowledge ALL spotlights/floodlights/driving lights need to be on their own switch activated by the highbeam (or parkers for driving lights) and should not be able to be turned on separately.

        • wfdTamar on 21/07/2015 - 15:09

          @SteveAndBelle: There was a bit more to it for my kit as the switch was illuminated. Also the relay was wired up in a weird way. Had to change all connections on it around and cut and solder a few wires. Then a few earth connections.

          Unlikely you'd want to run just the light bar without high beam. If you use the standard relay included with the basic wiring kits but wire it up to high beam - the high beam connection doesn't supply the power for the lights, merely the 'signal' power for the relay. However even this amount of power drawn from the high beam wire could be enough to give an error in modern cars.

        • OzBragain on 22/07/2015 - 19:23

          @SteveAndBelle:

          Wasn't really clear in your post, good of you to clarify.

          If the cops or DOT really wanted to get picky then lights mounted above bullbars and on racks would get pinged (and they'd be pulling over all the boy racers driving around with fog lights all the friggin time). Most people don't need a light bar on every time high beams are on. Be considerate of other motorists with your lights is an idea that many people who want to look cool just don't get.

    • SteveAndBelle on 21/07/2015 - 10:59

      Hey Josh. If you're just after an uber-cheap LED bar then you may as well just go for one of the cheapies on eBay, like this: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/24INCH-120W-EPISTAR-LED-Spot-Floo… Can't see how the one offered here would be any different to this one. Neither unit uses 'CREE' LEDs but again that shouldn't make them junk either, it just means they probably wont be as bright and probably wont last as long. You may be surprised too! All depends on your budget & usage expectations.

    • Disc2 on 24/07/2015 - 15:51

      I just unpacked mine and it works great.
      My boss just asked me to buy one for him too.

  • Valjew on 21/07/2015 - 10:24

    Also curious to hear people's thoughts regarding how this compares to the eBay deals that were recently posted.

  • Krazyy on 21/07/2015 - 10:52

    What is the colour temp?

  • bUrd on 21/07/2015 - 11:20

    Are these types of bars any good to use for lighting in the shed? Wiring it up to a spare car battery or a 12v PSU and away you go? Or are there better products to use in a shed?

    • ratsackgamer on 21/07/2015 - 11:23
      +1

      You'll blind yourself and I doubt a battery would last too long.

      You could get a 12V power supply and hook it up to something a lot smaller. Eg- one of the 7" LED light bars would be decent.

      • SteveAndBelle on 21/07/2015 - 11:31

        Agreed. These would be overkill for a shed, even a HUGE one! Although these are LEDs they are still power hungry drawing 10A and creating quite a lot of heat. You'd be far better off with general purpose LED lighting which will cost less and consume less current which is ideal if you're wanting to use a car battery to power them. Even better, spend less on getting a few general purpose LED lights then go get a small solar panel to put on the shed roof to keep the car battery topped up.. assuming you have a spare car battery of course. For a 'ready-to-run' solution you'd be best looking at something like this: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SOLAR-LIGHT-54LED-GARDEN-Shed-TOO… There are cheaper versions available however this one will produce decent amounts of light and has a Li-Ion battery.

Login or Join to leave a comment
Login Join