How much should I ask?

Hi all

I am planning on selling my car and I am unsure on how much I can reasonably ask…

I bought the car one year and a half ago in Brisbane for $8k and I am looking at selling it in Darwin next week. Having a trawl through Gumtree and Carsales it looks like the car is still worth around $8k in Darwin (my colleagues tell me that cars are more expensive here?), which is great news for me

It still has QLD rego though. My understanding is that the buyer would have to transfer it to NT rego within 14 days of buying it. Would you buy a car from another state? The alternative would be for me to go through the hassle myself (which would also enable me to ask money back on my QLD unused rego)
Also, in order to change the rego to the NT one the car needs to pass RWC (which I am sure it will)… Is the onus of checking this on the seller or the buyer?

Lastly, the car got a bit of hail damage during the November storm in Brisbane last year. The damage is purely cosmetical (on bonnet and roof only) and can only be seen in certain light, but we are talking about maybe a hundred super-tiny dents in total. I saw on another thread that someone said that a car with hail damage is only worth 20% of it face value, but I guess this largely depends on what kind of hail damage we are talking about. How much should I discount for tiny dents?

Other than those the car is mechanically perfect, we just finished a 10,000 km roadtrip and never had a problem, other than the battery which has been changed.

If anyone could offer any advice/ guideance that would be much appreciated!!

Comments

  • What type/model is it?

  • -2

    Hyndai Getz

  • Redbook.com.au is what i use to buy or sell cars on. It's a good guide as to what it's worth and how much you should price your next car. Your 10,000km road trip will take a bit off the price. you could be dodgy and not mention that, or you could tell them.

    I don't know how hard it is to obtain a RWC and requirements up there, but in VIC, it's tough, like they measure treads, pad percentage, filters, evertyhing. It's up to the seller to fix issues before they sell. If it's anything like NSW's RWC then you are all good if you have 4 wheels on the road, their's is a joke and its buyers risk.

    • Thanks I didn't know about that site.
      It gives me between $5.9k to $7.3 if I sell to private… But doesn't take into consideration where I sell!
      Seems good though - the car has way less kms than what the average is for a Hyundai Getz from that year so I'll probably go for $6.5k negotiable as I need to sell fairly quick!

      • if you want 6500, ask 7k. they will probably try to ream you down to about 6, and agree on 6.5k. But with hail damage, you are more likely to get 5.5-5.8 imo.

        • A long 10000km trip could work in your favour.

          As a percentage of total distance traveled, could be a fair proportion of highway kms vs. stop-start and short run commuting.

          After all, you'll often see "mostly highway kms" or similar in an ad for a car that has moderate-to-high kms.

  • and I am unsure on how much I can reasonably askā€¦

    Look there is no law dictating what you can ask or pay for a used car in any condition.

    Well no offical law. The law of supply and demand is probably more appropriate.

    Guessing how much you can ask, when knowing the car, age and condition etc is hard enough, without seeing it and without knowing what other similar cars are being offered at the same time you want to sell, plus knowing how desperate you are to sell, these will have major impacts on your price.

    Then it's going to be who you sell it to. If they are a hard nosed buyer, like some here at Ozbargain, you will be at a disadvantage.

    The best way is to have someone you trust who can do the negotation for you. You have to set a price and stick with it and to know what you are competing against. This requires you to check out what similar cars are selling for in NT.

    Interstate registration really shouldnt be too much of an issue, but will mean a "cheaper" price. Now that's if you had two identical cars selling side by side.

    Obviously if you need to buy a new car, to replace it, that will influence you on your selling price.

    You have some basic research being that other models of the same seem to sell at $8K.

    As for the "negatives" like QLD rego and minor hail damage. let the buyer tell you how much the want a discount for this. Then decide if you want to give the discount or part of it. No one can tell you what these discounts should be. Lets say they offer $5000 for the car. Are you prepared to take it?

    Even if they say take $500 off for these issues, you can always say, no thats too low, I already priced these issues into the selling price etc. Then you may end up at $300 off which you decide, is it worth waiting for another buyer, or take the reduced price and get on with other things. Only you know that.

    Good luck

  • Ok so worth $8,000 lets say $500 off for hail damage..

    I'd list it at $7,500 and take anything over $7,300

    • +1

      ah, hail damage would take alot more than 500$ off the price, pretty sure hail damage makes it very hard to get the car insured.

      • It was just a example.

        OP should probably get the car re-registered in NT and get a road worthy etc

      • I did ask my insurer and indeed I can only get 3rd party fire & theft but no comprehensive unfortunately (not that many people would want comprehensive with a car of this value)

    • maybe a hundred super-tiny dents in total

      Thats going to take of at least 30% the price you will get, for you it is cosmetical(your word), for a buyer it is quite the opposite.

      • 30% is conservative
        I am in the insurance industry and can tell you that this car would likely be a write off if claimed on after the hail
        The cost to repair bonnet is ok but the roof is super difficult as you have to strip down completely, repair properly with lifetime guarantee on repairs, then build back up
        Labour to do properly would be at least $3K alone

        Still structurally sound so worth something - but nowhere near average retail in Red Book
        Car yard trade in prices are low - a good car of this type maybe $5K
        You wouldn't get $1K for yours from a dealer who can see the damage

        If damage is very slight you may get a buyer who can't see it and pay full price
        Are you comfortable in being this misleading?
        If not then I reckon half price - $4K - is VERY generous
        Personally I wouldn't pay more than that for something that can't be fully insured

  • +1

    I think you will be lucky to get 50% of what the cars worth.

    Price up PDR or take it to the local body shop.

  • By the way redbook is nonsense in my opinion.

    Check the average prices of similar cars in your area on gumtree or carsales. You can adjust your price there to be more or less competitive depending on the urgency of your sale.

  • +2

    if you are still selling…….
    Yes, cars do sell at a slighter higher margin in Darwin and some other 'remote' areas, but only some, and only if the car is already there. If buyer has to transport it…….?

    Sell with Qld reg, but ensure buyer knows responsibilities on transfer, in writing to clear you of default problems. Selling unregistered is ok too, but you have accept a massive price loss.

    NT Roadworthy/Safety Certificate(same/same) are basically as strict as elsewhere. As an ex inspector in the NT, it is up to the inspector how good, bad, strict or lax he is. Like anywhere, the relevant Transport Authority can pull ANY vehicle in for a random inspection.

    Insurance is not a problem. If the vehicle has not been 'Written Off' as a result of a claim, or other legal standing, then it is just existing vehicle damage, being in less than perfect/good or otherwise condition. Buyer will need to judge his honesty in declaring any existing damage on getting new insurance. Changing a bonnet and skimming a turret(roof)skin is no big deal, metallic paint costs a few bob more thou. Not all hail damage or insurance companies are the same, and must be treated as individual cases by case.

    Sale price. What ever you can get and what ever you will accept. Average it out with similarly privately advertised local vehicles(your direct competition), and be competitive. Always be under dealer prices as they have finance, warranty and coffee lounges. Be advertising $500-900 more than you will easily accept, but always be ready to barter a bit. They will pick a few faults to lower the price, makes them happy, you will ask slightly more than your minimum, making you happy. Making the vehicle stand out is going to make it easier to sell. Clean, clean, clean, pull the bugga to as many bits as you can inside. Then clean again. Treat the plastics, the satin black and tyres to shine. Polish the paint and clean all the glass. Jet blast the engine bay and under body, just do not spray directly into electrical plugs.

    Not everything here will always help with every vehicle sale, not everything will guarantee the best sale price, but they will help in either the price, ease of selling, or at least your satisfaction of doing the best you could.
    Nothing will make it more difficult thou. Cheers.

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