USA hospital plug adaptor anywhere?

lenlynn on 04/10/2014 - 10:20

Hi, I recently bought something from Amazon and it came with a USA plug, but not the typical US plug but one of those US hospital ones - two straight ends and one curved at the top. Can't attach a pic on mobile but please google 'USA hospital plug' and see the images.

Literally tried all the adaptors at Bunnings and DS and they couldn't fit, but I found an old printer cable that looks like it can be plugged into the machine itself. Only problem is the US cable says 10A 125V and my printer cable 10A 250V. I tried it out and it triggered the circuit breaker for my apartment.

I'm desperate, don't want to send it back as it's for my business and if I buy one from an Australian supplier it's double the price. I have emailed the amazon supplier and he has been ignoring me. Anyone knows where I can get an adaptor for this or what I can do please?

Electrical & Electronics

Comments

  • retiredfeline on 04/10/2014 - 10:26
    +3

    You mean like the 3-pin plug in the photo?

    It's a standard US grounded plug. Often seen on heavier duty equipment like computer servers. I've got an adaptor I bought in HK for $1 that would probably take it. You should be able to find one on eBay.

    However you may have a more serious problem. It sounds like your thingy is 110V only. Maybe that's why your circuit breaker tripped.

    • [Deactivated] on 04/10/2014 - 11:04

      It looks like they've purchased something with NEMA 'L' designation plug. Sounds like an expensive mistake.

      Lenlynn, exactly what did you buy?

    • lenlynn on 04/10/2014 - 11:39
      +1

      https://www.google.com.au/search?q=usa+hospital+plug&client=…
      it's this one, cant really see the top pin of your pic. Is it the same as yours?

      The bottom says "100-125VAC, 1.6-2.0A, 50-60Hz"

      • retiredfeline on 04/10/2014 - 11:42
        +4

        You'll need a step down transformer. That is, if you haven't damaged the equipment already, like Tas says. Maybe you'll be lucky and it's only a heating device that drew too much current for a short time. Or maybe it's broken now.

        • thejew on 04/10/2014 - 13:44
          +1

          Whatever you bought, you used the wrong electricity for it.

          Id be shocked if the item was not dead.

          Killed be you.

  • sparkles on 04/10/2014 - 10:37

    Sounds like you'll need a 110V to 220V step up converter.

    • [Deactivated] on 04/10/2014 - 10:54
      +2

      Step-down converter, sparkles, but easy to mix up.

      OP, depending on the device in question, don't be surprised if you have already damaged your device by plugging it into our 240 volt mains - notwithstanding the circuit-breaker having tripped.

      • lenlynn on 04/10/2014 - 11:40

        Oh no:(
        thought of that but really hope it's not else byebye $200 arghhh

      • sparkles on 04/10/2014 - 19:46

        woops

  • PissLUR on 04/10/2014 - 10:50
    +4

    You need a transformer, not just an adaptor.

  • lenlynn on 04/10/2014 - 11:50

    Thanks everyone, I will go ds later to find a step down transformer!:)

    • retiredfeline on 04/10/2014 - 11:55
      +2

      You'll need a capacity of at least 250VA (W) from the thingy specs: 110V * 2.0A + some safety margin.

      If there are any electronics in the device like timers, LEDs, etc. it may already have been damaged. See if you can get temporary access to a step down transformer before you throw more money at the problem.

      • lenlynn on 04/10/2014 - 12:04

        I will bring it to the shops to ask if I can try it out before buying. Worried that the weird end wouldn't be able to fit into the transformer too as it couldn't fit into all the adaptors.

        cannot find it on dick smith website! Have they stopped selling transformers??

    • [Deactivated] on 04/10/2014 - 12:45
      +2

      Assuming bath-having-survived, as far as wattage is concerned, you're pretty lucky, with 300 watt transformers selling on eBay for all of thirty bucks. Keep that in mind if you're planning to buy instore.
      http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/370732976235
      http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/301236304346

      Unless you're planning some other adventurous Amazon purchases in future, getting to test your bath before buying a potential door-stop would be handy…

      To answer your concern (above and below), no guarantees, but the sockets on the transformers linked should accept that earth-pin without any drama. If not - other ways and means (safe ones).
      Post back here. Let us know if ze plug fitz.

  • lenlynn on 04/10/2014 - 12:02

    Just realised, the weird hospital end might not even fit into the transformer if the transformer is made to fit standard us plugs.

  • tinx on 05/10/2014 - 11:59
    +1

    use your printer cable AND a step down transformer

    if it's not dead yet :)

  • lenlynn on 05/10/2014 - 14:25

    Just got it tested at Jaycar, it's dead. Frustrated, can't believe we were so dumb.
    Expensive lesson. Found it interesting though that the hospital plug fits into the transformer.

    Thank you all for your advice and useful links; I will get the ebay transformer when I save up enough for another one.

    • retiredfeline on 05/10/2014 - 15:25

      :( Sorry to hear that.

    • lplau on 05/10/2014 - 16:08
      +2

      Sorry to hear that.
      But bright side, you now know to check the input voltages prior to plugging something into the wall, especially if it is imported.

      110V = Dead in Aus without Transformer.
      Anywhere between 220-240V = OK in Aus.

      Quite a few electronics which doesn't have a motor in it is usually 110-240V or 110-220V which works in AUS.
      Check the labels before plugging it in, it will save you grief next time!

      You can bring it to a electronics store or look on Ozbargain if anybody in Perth knows how to replace components on a circuit board, as said below it is most likely a blown capacitor. I wouldn't recommend doing it yourself as you didn't have knowledge of the basics of voltage (e.g. blowing the item up in the first place), unless you do ALOT of research on the web.

  • backpaqer on 05/10/2014 - 15:43
    -5

    Usually if you try to run a 110vac unit on 240vac you are probably going to only blow a capacitor. If you feel comfortable opening the unit and handy with a soldering iron it should be pretty easy to spot what needs replacing. Just a matter of finding out the capacitor value.

    • Sharp on 05/10/2014 - 19:56
      +6

      OP didn't even know 110v vs 240v. What makes you think he could identify a capacitor? Although it could be as simple as a fuse replacement I wouldn't recommend OP open the thing up with his limited electricity/ circuitry knowledge.

      • backpaqer on 06/10/2014 - 09:49
        -1

        Thanks for the negs…not.
        If he can't do it himself, then there's a chance he might have a friend or a local electronics repair shop that can help out. I was just suggesting that repairing the unit might not be infeasible or expensive.

        • retiredfeline on 06/10/2014 - 10:05
          +1

          By all means have someone qualified look at it if there is little cost but don't expect repairs to be as simple as "a capacitor". If there's a SMPS for the LV control circuits it would have taken a hit and may be a write-off. If there is power control such as a triac that might be a write-off too.

        • backpaqer on 07/10/2014 - 14:24

          Even easier than a capacitor. The heating pads can be easily tested for resistance to check if they are still OK or not. The thermostats are easily tested in a pot of water on a stove to check that they open circuit at their specific temperatures. This is probably not the exact product the OP bought - but the overall concept has to be as simple.

          Circuit diagram and detailed instructions on how to fix (or send it back to the factory to be fixed) can be found here: http://www.therabathpro.com/pdf/MR80svc110.pdf

        • eug on 07/10/2014 - 14:47

          @backpaqer:

          Even easier than a capacitor.

          There are no capacitors in that diagram. Bimetallic strip thermostats won't mind the higher voltage, so it's most likely a blown heating pad. Are you sure sourcing and replacing the heating pads is easier than replacing a capacitor, and more cost-effective than simply buying a new one, after adding labour costs?

          I think replacing a capacitor would be easier since they're so common.

          I was just suggesting that repairing the unit might not be infeasible or expensive.

          I think if you actually said that in your first post rather than suggesting that the OP can replace parts with a soldering iron, people would react differently.

          In any case, surely if someone is handy with a soldering iron, they would know about 110V vs 230V.

        • retiredfeline on 07/10/2014 - 17:54

          It's a little known fact that The IT Crowd considered using the phrase "Have you changed the capacitor in it?" but eventually settled on "Have you turned it off and on again?"

        • eug on 07/10/2014 - 18:06

          @greenpossum: Haha, I guess they didn't want to alienate their non-techie audience. I think only techies know about capacitor plague. Everyone knows about turning something off and on though. :)

        • backpaqer on 08/10/2014 - 08:59

          @eug:
          That's what I meant…it's really only two possible points (types) of failure (as the light would not impact function if it had blown) - pad or points…and both easy to test. Though knowing my luck…the lamp could have fused and created a short…unlikely, but never say never.

          My ex-brother-in-law used to open up anything electrical and replace all the capacitors with higher quality units - even a TV he bought brand new (was a CRT TV…this was some time ago).

        • eug on 08/10/2014 - 11:25

          @backpaqer:

          My ex-brother-in-law used to open up anything electrical and replace all the capacitors with higher quality units - even a TV he bought brand new (was a CRT TV…this was some time ago).

          I think that's bordering on obsessive. :)

        • backpaqer on 09/10/2014 - 08:52

          @eug:

          "bordering"…is probably an overly politically correct term…he was a nutcase. He rebuilt an entire car engine when it was working fine to begin with…and he didn't have a second car to use while he did it!

    • This Guy on 06/10/2014 - 01:56

      100% with Sharp.

      Don't play with power electronics. Power supplies are not toys. Some units can generate very high voltages. Others can store charge for hours.

    • lenlynn on 06/10/2014 - 09:28

      Yeah better not, both me and my boyfriend know nuts about electrics. We are the sort who have to bring a blown bulb to get a replacement, they all look the same. :p

      And we don't even have a drill at home, much less a soldering iron. I do know what it's for though. Haha!

  • Joxer on 05/10/2014 - 19:05

    Always check operating voltage of anything not bought locally, if it can't do 220+V then you'll kill it.

  • nicksinternet on 05/10/2014 - 19:22

    Dude, you will need a transformer to run USA 110V on our 230V.

    Unless the power supply says something like 110/240V or 110-240V.

    Its about 50/50 with stuff from the states. Usually if it is digital and runs off of a DC transformer made in China it would support both, as its cheaper for them to make the one power supply to ship around the world. Also, things with motors are usually not compatible.

  • eug on 07/10/2014 - 01:35

    Can't attach a pic on mobile but please google 'USA hospital plug' and see the images.

    Thought you might like to know, this thread is now the top result when you google "usa hospital plug". Congrats! :)

    https://www.google.com.au/search?q=usa+hospital+plug

    • lenlynn on 07/10/2014 - 09:00

      LOL!!!!! First time at the top of any Google list.. And for being idiotic. Hmm

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