Making rental unit cold proof + Electric heating solution for cheap

Hi all,

I live in rental unit in ACT region but the winter here is killing me!

[1]. So far I researched on OZB and Whirlpool, it seems the first thing to do is make the house/unit cold/draught proof. I have ordered this on ebay to seal the internal doors - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/121141100966 and external door - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/141267357618

Will they suffice in draught proofing? What additional thing I need to do? How to seal the window frame leaks?

[2]. There is no gas connection to the unit, and using reverse cycle AC is a no no as I'm a student in a tight budget, can not afford it. So I'm left with Oil column heater, Radiant heater, convection heater and fan heater (Please add other types of electric heater if I missed any). I currently use 2 small fan heater (12$ Kmart) to heat my lounge and bedroom but my last electricity bill was higher than a normal winter bill.

So which one should I use to heat my unit with minimum electricity bill (I know electric heating is not efficient but my concern is to use the best among them).

Thanks in advance!

Comments

  • +6

    Reverse cycle is the cheapest form of electric heating… You get more heat energy out than electricity you put in! Unlike all the resistive heating devices that you have listed.
    If you have a RC air con, use it!

    Open the curtains to let in the sun during the day, close them before sunset.
    Look at sealing the bathroom and laundry doors and seal off any room that you don't use especially if it doesn't get sun in the day.

    I have wood frame windows and "sealed" them with rolled up paper jammed into the gaps.
    The paper falls out when you open them, but I don't plan on doing it until it gets warmer anyway.

    • As I said above, can't afford RC AC. :(

      • +2

        RC Air is generally 3 times more cost effective than an electric heater… i.e. for electric heater, 1 unit of electricity in = 1 unit of heat out. For RC Air, 1 unit of electricity in = 3 units of heat out. That is because the electric heaters convert electricity into heat (at roughly the same efficiency) whereas RC Air pumps existing heat from outside to inside.

        At the end of the day, trying to heat a single room with RC Air will be cheaper than heating the same room with an electric heater. But where RC Air gets unstuck is if you are comparing a small electric heater in a small room vs a large ducted system.

        Also remember that RC air energy use varies significantly depending on the heat setting. 1 degree roughly translates to 10% increase cost (and this holds true for all heaters). I have mine set to 18 degrees in winter and it is comfortable.

      • I read it as "can't afford to run"

  • +1

    Cheapest form of heating is convection fan less panel heaters. Outlay might be 200-400 depending on size of room.

    Good student tip, buy a heated plug-in rug amd a hot water bottle from a 2 dollar shop/discount shop. Cheaper to heat yourself than an entire room.

    • +4

      This is incorrect. Per unit of heat produced versus electricity consumed, reverse cycle aircon is better. Because it does not directly heat, instead pumping the heat from one area to another, it can deliver more kilowatts of energy than the power it consumes.

      The comment to rug your self up is right, though. (sorry zeggie, accidentally negged you)

    • You can remove neg by clicking the 'votes' link under my post you negged :-P

      Just read the OP is a student as well. Buying a panel heater would be out of the question. Electric rug I would recommend then.

      • Can you please link to the item here? I heard convection heaters are better than the rest.

  • I know it gets very cold in the ACT. But for the cheapest option, you could just wear more clothing. I'm being serious - covering your extremities makes you feel a lot warmer. e.g. socks, beanie, gloves, along with your usual trackies/jackets etc.

  • +4

    I understand you keep saying you can't afford to run the AC, but what the rest of us are saying is if you buy a radiant heater (that is, any other type except AC) and run it for the same amount of time/same thermostat control, it will consume more power and cost you more.
    You can run the AC less often, or at a lower temp to save money, but a new heater will cost more to operate.
    If I am home on my own, I pop a beanie on my head and turn off the heating. Of course, I get teased by the family when they come home to an ice box!

  • +1

    I think what OP was trying to say is that there is no RC AC in the premises and he/she can't afford to purchase and install one.

    You may be able to find a relatively cheap box unit that you can put in one of your window (depending on type of window) and then seal up around unit. You could try looking in seconds store or even 2nd hand. Lots of box units get taken out because they are not as sexy as split systems.

    • Great tip..
      PS glad to see I wasn't the only one who misinterpreted the can't afford RC statement.

      • Can you elaborate a bit on box unit? How does it work, difference with split system?

        • box unit is the older style boxes you see hanging out of walls/windows. they are noisier because the compressor is in the unit and not located separately outside. Split systems are much more expensive to install, as they require more cabling and pipework. The box units you can run from a indoor power point.Google search for some units, or give installers or local appliance stores a call, they may have some 2nd hand units should be able to pickup up new ones for 300-400 with the added bonus of having cooling in summer. Will definitely reduce electricty bills when compared to other electric heaters.

        • @teardrops21:

          This would have been a good idea if i lived in ground floor, but my landlord won't allow me to install something like that hanging from the window of storey 2.

        • The box is probably going to be hard to manage in a rental, but you can get portable units that are basically boxes on wheels, and the exhaust port dangles out the window as a small flexi pipe. They plug into a power point as well.

          Price is a couple hundred, but you might pick up a second hand unit for cheap. Not all are RC though.

        • It would be fixed in place. If I was landlord I'd be happy if someone wanted to improve my building

  • Use an electric blanket and/or heated throw rug. Much cheaper than a heater.

    Wear layers as others have suggested.

    Draft stoppers like the ones you bought won't do much but are better than nothing.

    Get proper thick blockout curtains, especially if you have large windows.

    • I have two large windows. Can suggest some blockout curtains, any link?

      • delete pls

      • I picked up some free from Gumtree that were custom made and would have cost a few hundred initially. They are fantastic quality and have a really good weight to them, they make a huge difference to the room temperature. You could also try op shops, they often stock curtains.

        My housemate got his from Spotlight. They only do as half as good a job as my expensive (yet free lol) ones but are way better than nothing :)

        If there aren't already curtain rails you won't be able to hang very heavy curtains unless you're allowed to drill holes. Lighter ones (such as those sold at Spotlight) will be okay to hang from rails secured with removable 3m stickies.

        I lived in Canberra and was surprised at how many of the older units are built with floor to ceiling windows, it doesn't make sense with the cold. I could feel the cold emanating from the windows at night.

        Another tip is to buy a wheat bag that sits around the neck. Heat and wear it around the house - it makes you warmer for around an hour.

  • +2

    My Aunty gave me a bunch of 'canvas' prints (ie artwork wrapped on a wooden frame).
    Turns out that three of them fit my windows perfectly (all different sizes tho).
    Makes my room look cool, while feeling much much warmer.

    If you combined this with heavy 'blockout' fabric curtains (ikea/spotlight should be able to provide) then I think you are onto a winner.
    I have an old thick dropsheet that I put up on my deck doors for winter.. works very well.

    Also, you could consider bubblewrap on your window surfaces.
    The downside is, it's kinda tacky and you can't see clearly out them anymore.
    The upside is, it's cheap and apparently adds an R value or two.
    Apparently you spray water with a bit of detergent on the window and hold the bubblewrap will hold there easily (so I suppose easy enough to take down during the day)
    Anyway, there's youtube videos on that you can look at).

    There are also youtube videos on using clear plastic that is kinda heat-shrunk to be taught, but floating above your current glass. A poor-mans way of getting double-glazing.
    I looked into it a little and there doesn't seem to be any cheap kit in australia yet.

    If you happen to have a friend who is an electrician, pest inspector, The Predator, mechanic.. sometimes these people have access to thermal cameras so you can see where you are losing most of your heat. However, you probably are losing most through windows. Sometimes there are gaps around the window framing (ie behind the architrave).. If you detect it there then google ways to stop leakage there.

    Totally agree with the electric blanket idea.
    Mine (for the bed) uses only 30watts on minimum.. which is warm enough for me.
    Also, if you don't already have a thick proper wool doona, if you are still on cheap polyester ones.. then you are missing out on some seriously awesome warmth.

    good luck

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